Road Trip 2020: Day 4 | Charleville – (almost) Barcaldine

I know that some of you have travelled with us previously.

Not literally travelled with us, because that would be weird. There wouldn’t be enough space in the car for all of you, and when we book a room to stay we only book for the two of us.

What I mean is that you travel with us vicariously through the blog.

So anyway, I know that some of you have travelled with us previously, and you know that at some point in the trip we give the car a name.

Elsie.

That’s what Kerri has called our car. Elsie.

Not exactly the type of name that belongs on the “King off the road”… but it does have her initials on the number plate, so I guess she gets naming rights.

I would have chosen Mustafa, but no, Elsie. Pfft.

I’ll leave it up to you to figure out why the car is called Elsie.

Anyhow, we loaded up Elsie (who calls a car Elsie???) and pulled out of the Charleville Bush Caravan Park at about 8.45am. We thought we’d mix it up a little today 🙂

Charleville Bush Caravan Park
Charleville Bush Caravan Park

Just hold that thought for a moment.

So I told you that we were going to the Cosmos Centre last night for the Big Sky Observatory tour.

$30 each. Not the most expensive thing that we are doing on the trip; certainly not the cheapest … but it was a fizzer.

We were due to start at 9.00pm sharp, but at 9.07pm we were still standing around while some of the staff had huddled discussions, and others Googled the weather on the computer.

Apparently there were clouds coming in and they did not feel that they could give us the “full experience” … so they gave us two other options – go into the other dome thing and look at “NASA imagery”, or get a refund.

So seriously … you don’t drive all the way to Charleville to get a refund just because there are “clouds”, so we went for the narrated NASA imagery option instead.

Fizzer 🙁

The shape of the dome meant that everything said had a terrible echo (… echo … echo …) and it was very hard to understand. And then there was the fact that imagery moved across the dome at a speed that made you feel like you were going around and around …

Anyway, it was better than a poke in the eye with a blunt pencil, although only marginally better.

C’est la vie.

So the moral to that story is that if you drive all the way to Charleville, pay $60 for two people to see the Big Sky Observatory and they say that “there are clouds” – take the refund.

But that’s just my opinion.

I realised last night while we were at the Cosmos Centre that I had forgotten to show you yesterday’s trip details, so here it is.

Mitchell - Charleville
Mitchell – Charleville

Mitchell to Charleville with no wrong turns. Approx 219 km, 2.5 hours.

So back to the story …

Elsie; 8.45 am; decided mix it up a bit.

We mixed it up by travelling north today, rather than west.

The road that the Charleville Bush Caravan Park is on is called the Diamantina Development Road, and also the longest road in Australia. 1334km.

Diamantina Development Road
Diamantina Development Road – Australia’s longest road

My mind boggles at the number of dead ‘roos that you would see in 1334km.

All of the distances are big in the west. Nothing is close by.

Long distances
Long distances in the outback

Left out of the caravan park, left onto the road to Augathella, wind Elsie up to 110km/hour and we were on our way.

The roads and surrounding land is just astonishing – big, brown and it just goes on and on and on …

Road Charleville to Tambo (towards Barcaldine)
Road Charleville to Tambo (towards Barcaldine)

A quick stop at one of those truck rest stops to “check that I’d attached the caravan correctly” (I didn’t really need to check the van), and then we rolled into Augathella at around 9.45am.

Augathella: population 449.

Augathella Public Conveniences
Augathella Public Conveniences (aka toilets)
Augathella
Augathella
Augathella
Augathella
Augathella “friendly grocer”
Augathella “friendly grocer”

Two things amused me about the shop in the photo above.

Firstly it is listed as a “friendly grocer”. I would have assumed the “friendly” part – I mean, they are not likely to say that they are an “unfriendly grocer”… are they?

Secondly, the sign proudly announced that they are “open 5 days”, like it is something truly progressive.

Maybe being open 5 days IS progressive for Augathella?

Augathella
Augathella

Too early for coffee but a(nother) quick comfort stop at the public conveniences and we were heading towards Tambo.

We hit our first 1000km for the trip just south of the Nive River.

Tambo is another very pretty little town, and we arrived just in time for lunch.

I beg your pardon (I never promised you a rose garden) - Tambo
I beg your pardon (I never promised you a rose garden) – Tambo

We spent some time browsing the counter lunch menu at the Carrangarra Hotel, strategising what to have for lunch before going to place our order.

You’d think that the first clue for us big city folk was the fact that we were the only two people in the place. 

No. Other. Customers.

You’d think that the difficulty we had finding someone who worked at the pub might have been the second clue.

When we found him, he looked at us quizzically, listening carefully to what we wanted to order, before advising that they “aren’t doing meals at the pub at the moment, but that there are two cafe’s in town that are quite good”.

Oh well.

So we went over the road to Cindy’s – a neat little place (also with no customers, I should add) to learn that the lady who owned the place wasn’t called Cindy. Go figure!

We ordered lunch – a beef burger for me; nachos for Kerri. We also ordered coffees. Ate lunch and took the coffees across the road to the park to drink it.

Lunch was OK, but certainly not  good enough to warrant any more discussion that that.

Tambo
Tambo

We looked at the sights – mainly a restored fire engine …

Tambo fire engine
Tambo fire engine

… and the Tambo Teddies (I don’t know, so don’t ask), then got back into Elsie and pulled out of town. Next stop, Blackall.

Really good roads, 110km/h. Smooth, fast, flat.

We got stuck behind a “Beef Bus” at a set of lights at a roadworks in the middle of nowhere.

Beef bus
Beef bus

“Beef Bus” makes it sound exotic and exciting, but it just looked overcrowded, it was smelly, and I’m guessing that it wasn’t going to end well for the beef.

Which reminds me – we should buy some steak for dinner …

Those road trains are amazing – up to 53m long and essentially a truck cab with 3 semi-trailers hooked on behind.

Overtaking the beef bus
Overtaking the beef bus

They are certainly a challenge to overtake – like trying to overtake a cruise ship!

We rolled into Blackall at 1.30pm – another pretty little place that is famous for Jackie the shearer (he held the record for most sheep sheared – 321 sheep in 7 hours 40 minutes in 1892 – for 58 years, and was beaten only when electric shearing equipment was introduced).

Jackie the shearer
Jackie the shearer

Blackall is also home of the Black Stump – used to hold scientific equipment for measuring the position of towns in Queensland.

Black stump
Black stump – Blackall
Black stump
Black stump – Blackall

The Black Stump was considered so far away that anything beyond it to the west was considered to be “Beyond the Black Stump”.

Beyond the Black Stump
Beyond the Black Stump – Blackall

I’m pretty sure that I’ve been to Blackall before – back in My Ergon days – and I had a clear mental picture of what it looked like.

Blackall
Blackall

That would have been back in 2005 or 2006 and guess what? It hasn’t changed one little bit.

Blackall
Blackall

We had planned to stay in Blackall tonight, but friends of ours – you’ll meet them soon – stayed about 50 minutes north of Blackall at a place called the Lara Wetlands. No power but they have hot showers, at a cost of $25/night.

Bargain. And “just off the highway, 10km before Blackall”.

The driveway in goes for 13km. Thirteen! I travel just a little further than that each day going from home to the city.

So here we are. Beyond the Black Stump, but camping in possibly the most beautiful place I’ve seen in a long time.

Lara’s Wetlands
Lara’s Wetlands (just south of Barcaldine)

We soaked in the free artisan mineral pool, had our showers, took photos of the sunset …

Sunset at Lara’s Wetlands near Barcaldine

… and are now sitting in the van listening to the (very loud) live show at the other side of the campgrounds.

All of the yee-ha, yahoo kind of music that Mitchell (the son who got married recently, not the town) loves.

Artisan spa
Artisan spa – Lara’s Wetlands (near Barcaldine)

It’s been a big day, but a good one.

This is what today’s trip looks like.

Charleville - Barcaldine
Charleville – Barcaldine

402km, 4 hours and 20 minutes according to Google Maps, but actually about 7 hours with comfort stops, meal stops, and tourist stops.

It is so dark here that I had a crack at getting some images of the Milky Way. They turned out OK but I need to download them and post them. Watch this space.

That’s it for today. Time for bed.

Ciao

Road Trip 2020: Day 3 | Mitchell – Charleville

Today’s blog starts off with a puzzle.

What do manchester, children’s wear, coffee, jewellery, luggage, women’s wear, menswear, undergarments, shoes and embroidery have in common? I’ll tell you the answer to that a little later in the blog.

We rolled out of Mitchell at about 8.55am – about 30 minutes after our effort the day before … but then we had nowhere that we needed to be and all day to get there.

The Major Mitchell Caravan Park in Mitchell was a nice little park, although a bit random in the layout. There seemed to be vans everywhere, at all angles.

I’d suggest that it was organised chaos, except it wasn’t really organised at all 🙁

Ready to roll out of the Major Mitchell Caravan Park
Ready to roll out of the Major Mitchell Caravan Park

Probably the biggest drawback of many small town caravan parks is also it’s greatest draw card – they are located right on the highway. Easy to find, but the sound of road trains rolling through the centre of the caravan park all night (… well, that’s what it feels like!) can keep you awake 🙁

One of the great things about travelling around in the van is that you stay at a different place – and see different people – every day. That means that there is no requirement to make any special effort to think about what to wear … I can wear the same things every day and nobody will ever know!

I do draw the line at socks and jocks – but everything else can be recycled indefinitely! Bonus!

Maybe not indefinitely, but certainly until they are ready to be burned.

First stop today was Morven – about 1 hour from Mitchell. I’ll say that the reason we stopped was to get fuel, but the real reason was something else entirely. Faulty plumbing. You know how it is.

So we got fuel and then the second stop for the day was Morven (again). We saw a sign that said “Coffee van a head”.

That’s not a typo BTW. It was actually written “a head”.

I figured that they can’t be bad at both spelling AND making coffee, so we stopped.

Coffee van a head
Coffee van – Morven

It wasn’t the worst coffee I’ve ever had, but not the best either. No donut, and the price was more than the $3 coffee and donut special, but it was coffee all the same and came out of a fancy coffee machine that made all of the correct coffee noises.

Morven coffee stop
Morven coffee stop
Morven coffee stop
Morven coffee stop

Morven is a pretty little place, population approx 250.

Just the simple act of stopping increased the population at that moment in time by almost 1%! How’s that for having some significance and making a difference?

The roads were much better today. I watched the average fuel consumption fall from something around 20 litres/100km down to just under 16 litres/100km.

Road from Morven to Charleville
Road from Morven to Charleville

We sat on 100-110 km/hour and watched the red dirt and blue skies roll past.

It seems that there is an unwritten code of the road west of Roma that you have to wave to every driver of every vehicle that passes you headed in the opposite direction.

On today’s trip from Mitchell to Charleville I think that we sat behind a road train for a while, passed a Ford Ranger towing a huge dual axle van about 4 times (every time we stopped he went by again), and were overtaken by one vehicle.

That’s about it for people travelling from Mitchell west to Charleville. But it seemed that the whole world was travelling from Charleville back to Mitchell … so I spent the morning waving at every vehicle that was going in the other direction!

And I have to say that I was getting a little concerned that almost nobody was going to Charleville, but everybody was coming back from Charleville … and I had to wonder why …?

We rolled into Charleville at around 11.30am.

Charleville
Charleville
Charleville
Charleville

First thing that we saw was the Charleville train station. I thought about going in and saying hi to the locals … maybe tomorrow …

Charleville train station
Charleville train station

We went through town to the Charleville Bush Caravan Park – tonight’s stop – and dropped off/set up the van under a big, wide Charleville blue sky …

Charleville blue sky
Charleville blue sky!
Charleville Bush Caravan Park
Charleville Bush Caravan Park
Charleville Bush Caravan Park
Charleville Bush Caravan Park

… and then headed back into town to see the sights.

We started off in the main street of Charleville and found a parking spot at one end of the street and went for a walk through town.

Charleville
Charleville
Charleville
Charleville

After a quick bite at the bakery, we went off to find the Cosmos Centre because we are going there tonight to do the Big Sky Observatory tour. Pretty excited about that, I have to say.

The Cosmos Centre and the RFDS Visitor Centre are located together on the road to Cunnamulla, and we thought it best to find them in the daylight, in order to make it easier tonight.

We started at the RFDS Visitor Centre …

RFDS Visitor Centre Charleville
RFDS Visitor Centre – Charleville
RFDS Visitor Centre -Charleville
RFDS Visitor Centre – Charleville
RFDS Visitor Centre -Charleville
RFDS Visitor Centre – Charleville
RFDS Visitor Centre -Charleville
RFDS Visitor Centre – Charleville

… before heading over to the Cosmos Centre.

Cosmos Centre - Charleville
Cosmos Centre – Charleville
Cosmos Centre - Charleville
Cosmos Centre – Charleville
Cosmos Centre - Charleville
Cosmos Centre – Charleville

I’m really looking forward to the observatory tour tonight, but it doesn’t start until 9.00pm and goes through to 10.00pm or later … so you won’t hear about that until tomorrow’s blog.

So … the answer to today’s puzzle.

What do Manchester, children’s wear, coffee, jewellery, luggage, women’s wear, menswear, undergarments, shoes and embroidery have in common?

You can buy them all at R&P in Charleville!

R&P - Charleville
R&P – Charleville

That’s all for today. Tomorrow I’ll tell you all about the Cosmos Centre experience.

Ciao

Road Trip 2020: Day 2 | Miles – Mitchell

Last night in Miles it was cold. Seriously cold.

The evening started with a pleasant chat with our fellow travellers around the fire pit, swapping stories … and we went back to our van at around the same time as I was about to lose some fingers to frostbite.

Had a lovely hot shower at the amenities block after dinner and was letting off ZZZZs by about 9.30pm.

I woke sometime after that – no idea when really because it was very dark and I wasn’t wearing my glasses … but judging by my level of bladder discomfort I’d guess it was around 1.00am – and I was absolutely freezing.

Teeth-chatteringly cold. You know that cold that gets in your bones and you can’t stop shaking? Yep, just like that.

I turned on the little fan heater and warmed the van up all nice and toasty and went back to letting off ZZZZs.

The sun rises later the further west you go. That’s probably intuitively obvious, but it caught me by surprise anyway. I think it was about 6.45 and it was still pretty dark. I checked the weather and apparently it got down to 4 degrees last night, so that explains the teeth chattering.

We headed off around 8.30am and kept heading west. We made it all the way to Dulacca (44km) before needing to make our first (comfort) stop.

I personally blame the cold weather, faulty plumbing, coffee and a couple of glasses of water.

Wallumbilla
Wallumbilla

Next stop was Wallumbilla for – yes another (comfort) stop. Another 60km achieved. A nice little craft shop run by these two old dears in the middle of nowhere.

They even had Devonshire tea – coffee and scones with jam and cream.

So this was the first puzzle for the day – how do they serve coffee when they don’t have a coffee machine?

“Oh, it’s instant coffee dear – we don’t have that fancy coffee here!” Fortunately it was another couple placing the order, so we dodged a bullet there!

We made it to Roma at about 10.45am. Heading into Roma we saw a sign advertising coffee and a donut for $3 at Pie Face at the local servo, and thought “how bad can a $3 coffee and donut be?”

$3 coffee and donut
$3 coffee and donut – Roma

So … it was OK. Not the worst coffee I’ve ever had; certainly not the best.

Roma
Roma

You know the saying “When in Rome …?”

Well, “when in Roma, do as the Roma-n’s do” … so we went to look at the Big Rig …

Big Rig - Roma
Big Rig – Roma

… and the biggest bottle tree …

Bottle tree - Roma
Bottle tree – Roma

… and checked out the Main Street of Roma …

Main Street of Roma
Main street of Roma

… before doing more mundane things like going to Woolies to stock up on supplies.

At around 12.00 noon we once again headed west, towards Mitchell (the town, not the son who was married last weekend) …

Road Roma to Mitchell
Road Roma to Mitchell
Road Roma to Mitchell
Road Roma to Mitchell

The roads have been pretty good -everything west of Chinchilla has been posted at 110km/hour, although they are all pretty bumpy and rough … so 90-100km/hour feels much safer!

How do you measure progress in outback Queensland?

Litres per 100 km (not very good with 2.5 tonnes of van on the back and a strong headwind)?

Comfort stops per hour?

Dead kangaroos per km?

We passed through more funny-sounding towns …

Muckadilla (between Roma and Mitchell)
Muckadilla (between Roma and Mitchell)

… before arriving in Mitchell at around 1.30pm for a late lunch.

Mitchell
Mitchell

After lunch we went for a walk (only about 100m down the road from the Major Mitchell Caravan Park) to the Aquatic Centre to soak our cares away in the artisan spa for an hour or so.

Artisan spa - Mitchell
Artisan spa- Mitchell

We really should get one of these artisan/mineral spas installed at work and we would be so stress free!

We then went for a wander through the Main Street of Mitchell …

Mitchell
Mitchell

… and checked out the local general store that sold everything from boots to clothes, to spurs (for your boots) to guns and ammo.

Boots - Mitchell
Boots – Mitchell

Snappy!

We walked the street and found the world’s longest acronym – longer even than many words that I know!

The CWAATSICH. Stands for the Charleville Western Areas Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Community Health (Limited).

World’s longest acronym
World’s longest acronym

That was about all of the excitement that we could take for one day in Mitchell. Back to the van, chatted with our “neighbours” at the fire pit …

Fire pit - Major Mitchell Caravan Park
Fire pit – Major Mitchell Caravan Park

None of our “neighbours” was photo worthy, so we edited them all out and just kept the fire pit!

We watched the sun set through the trees …

Sunset - Mitchell
Sunset – Mitchell

… and then headed back to the van for dinner.

Looks like we are in for another cold night, so I might need to look out the thermals. I’d hate for my chattering teeth to wake up Kerri 🙁

Another cold night ahead
Another cold night ahead – Mitchell

At least the days (and nights) look like they are getting warmer!!!

That’s about it for tonight peeps.

230km, about 6 comfort stops, 1 coffee (and donut) stop, 2 tourist stops, about 1000 dead ‘Roos, dozens of those triple-length road trains (that are really hard to overtake with a van on the back) … and here we are in Mitchell!

Not exactly the stuff that our pioneering forefathers would have been proud of when they urged us to “go west, young man”, but a pleasant day on the road puddling along and watching the world go by … and certainly better than being at work!

Miles to Mitchell
Miles to Mitchell

Ciao

Road Trip 2020: Day 1 | Brisbane – Miles

Wow, what a week! Yesterday (Saturday 08 August 2020) was Mitchell and Alicia’s wedding, so the week prior was just all of that crazy, last minute wedding planning stuff.

Then the wedding yesterday. Did I mention that it was a COVID-19 wedding?

Mitchell & Alicia's wedding day
Mitchell & Alicia’s wedding day
Taylor family
All of us at Mitchell & Alicia’s wedding
The happy couple
The happy couple

Today (Sunday) Kerri & I left on our road trip from Brisbane to … well, where-ever the road takes us.

The road trip was supposed to be to the Blue Mountains. We originally booked it in May 2020 then cancelled due to border closures. Then when everything started to get back to normal we re-booked it for August … and then cancelled it again.

Now it is a western Queensland road trip instead!

Heading off
Heading off

We got away at about 9.30am and headed west – out through Ipswich, on the Toowoomba bypass road, a quick couple of left turns because we missed an exit, through Dalby, Chinchilla and into Miles.

As I’m sure you know, most smaller country towns are pretty dead on a Sunday afternoon, with everything closed. The sight of the day was a cafe in Brigalow advertising “all day breakfast” … except it was closed 🙁

The road to Miles
The road to Miles

We missed lunch, so we were a little peckish when we arrived in Miles at about 2.30 – just in time for cheese o’clock!

Cheese o'clock - Miles Crossroad Caravan Park
Cheese o’clock – Miles Crossroad Caravan Park

Staying at the Miles Crossroad Caravan Park for the night, the Miles Historical Village is just across the road, so over we went.

We managed to get admitted as “seniors” (we do have National Seniors over 55 cards after all). Not exactly great value – we’ve paid about $150 in subscription fees over the last 3 or so years, and the very first time we have used it we saved ourselves $3 each!

$144 in savings still to be recovered before we break even.

Toot toot!
Toot toot! – Miles historical village
Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village
A QR teapot cosy - almost made me feel homesick - Miles Historical Village
A QR teapot cosy – almost made me feel homesick – Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village
Miles Historical Village

So the trip today was 4 hours and 4 minutes that took us 5 hours with coffee stops and comfort stops. Not too bad going really …

Brisbane - Miles
Brisbane to Miles

Tomorrow we head towards Mitchell …

Ciao

Another summer day, has come and gone away, in Paris and Rome, but I wanna go

… home.

Today is probably the coldest that I have ever felt.

We started the day at -8°C that felt like -16°C.

Temperature – Brooklyn NYC

Before I talk about today, let me finish talking about last night.

Last night MBW and I went to a concert at Carnegie Hall in NYC. Keith and Kristyn Getty were doing their Christmas concert – and it was a good one. Probably not what I was expecting, but to see anything in Carnegie Hall was pretty exciting.

Carnegie Hall – NYC

Before the concert – which started at 7.30pm – we wandered around Times Square and 5th Avenue looking at the lights and enjoying the snow storm.

We decided to splurge for our last dinner in NYC at Angelo’s Coal Oven Pizzeria on 7th Ave and had pasta … as you do. It was good too.

Dinner at Angelo’s Coal Oven Pizzeria – NYC

Then, because we couldn’t warm up, we went to Carnegie Hall early and sat inside to escape the cold.

While we experienced “snow squalls” on 5th Ave, we heard that they had a total white-out on 7th Ave. The snow there was so heavy and intense.

I know that you’ve seen these snow pictures before, but they still excite me 🙂

Snow – NYC
Snow – NYC

Missed it by that much 🙁

Then the concert. It finished some time after 10.15pm – way past my bedtime – and then home on the subway. We finally got home around 11.30pm.

It had obviously been snowing heavily at Brooklyn.

Snow – Brooklyn NYC

Today is our last day in NYC and the USA.

We had already finished all of the food that we had bought and drunk all of the milk. Well to be completely truthful, we still had a couple of packets of 2 minute noodles that I objected to buying in the first place … and we were never going to have them for breakfast.

So the cupboard was bare, but there were food places to explore in Brooklyn – just around the corner.

So we rugged up. How much colder can -8°C that feels like -16°C possibly be? Can it be colder that -3°C?

You bet that it can!

-8°C that feels like -16°C is so cold that it is in your bones. It is so cold that your ears hurt. It is so cold that it makes your eyes water. It takes your breath away. Your feet go numb … you get the idea.

We had a couple of bakery options around the corner. We went to “Dough” first, which happens to be a donut shop. Yes, I know what you are thinking.

Fortunately, or unfortunately, it was closed.

Option 2 was the Clementine Bakery. It was open and had people inside, so we took that as a good sign.

On the door was a big sign that said “No Espresso – machine broken”.

We took that as a bad sign. A very bad sign.

Fortunately their drip coffee machine was still working, so we had 2 large coffees with hot milk, and a couple of muffins. It was good.

We had a notion that we would be able to get out amongst it again this morning for the very last time. It was our last chance to be subway ninjas … but we still needed to finish our packing … so realistically we knew that we didn’t really stand a chance of getting back into Manhattan today.

We decided to stay local, so instead we took a walk the long way (AKA the scenic route) back to our AirBnB after coffee and muffins.

The long way wasn’t actually a long way, BTW, but probably better described as not the most direct route.

Walking in Brooklyn NYC
Brooklyn NYC

To be completely honest, we really only walked 3 sides of our block rather than the one side back home.

But I have to tell you – even that was an adventure. 

Sliding on ice, shaking with the cold, having the wind cut straight through you. Even with the added thermals that we hadn’t normally been wearing, the cold was actually painful.

I was pretty sure that I’d lost a couple of toes.

These New Yorkers are many things, but they are a tough crowd. How they put up with that for 2-3 months every year is beyond me.

A couple of observations from our little walk though.

There are lots of cars in NYC. Lots and lots. In Brooklyn where we have been staying, no one seems to have a garage or any off-street parking. Everyone parks on the street.

So there are a lot of cars parked on the street. All jostling for a position.

I showed a picture the other day from our tour in Harlem. Cars park very close together – both beside each other and nose-to-tail.

There is obviously an issue where people park by Braille – they reverse in until they touch the car behind, then adjust their position.

Bumper Buster – NYC

This obviously causes scratches and damage to cars, so people put these “Bumper Busters” on their cars to protect them … or maybe to protect the cars that they back into.

The other interesting thing that we noticed was that the area we are living in this time is quite different to the part of Brooklyn we stayed in last year – even though they are not very far apart.

Last year we stayed in an area that seemed to be populated with what I would probably describe as historic brownstones.

They were all quite well kept, nicely looked after, and appeared to be individual houses. From memory, they were all pretty expensive too.

Here is a picture of where we stayed last year. You can see why I have referred to it as Sesame Street.

177 Sesame Street Brooklyn

The area where we stayed this year is probably best described as brick units. They are less well looked after and some appear to have even been knocked down to make room for new development.

Lexington Ave Brooklyn – NYC
Lexington Ave Brooklyn – NYC

All of this happening just down our street but we didn’t know – because we hadn’t gone that way.

So we got home, peeled off all of those layers, and packed our bags.

You’ve seen pictures of the outside of our AirBnB in Brooklyn, but here are some inside pictures.

We’ve been staying at Frances’ place at 143 Lexington Ave, Brooklyn.

Frances’ AirBnB, Lexington Ave, Brooklyn NYC
Frances’ AirBnB, Lexington Ave, Brooklyn NYC
Frances’ AirBnB, Lexington Ave, Brooklyn NYC
Frances’ AirBnB, Lexington Ave, Brooklyn NYC

We didn’t need to leave for the airport until about 12.30 or 1.00pm for a 3.30pm flight from JFK to LAX. It is about a 45 minute trip in an Uber.

Waiting for an Uber – Brooklyn NYC

To be honest, we weren’t really sure how long before the flight we needed to be there. 

While technically it is only a domestic flight, our limited experience in USA airports – and NYC airports in particular – tells us that the security people are thorough in their screening and processing approach, and have a very low tolerance for people who don’t know exactly where they are going or what they need to do to get there.

And they have absolutely no tolerance for people that don’t understand their version of the English language.

Take a wrong turn, or present yourself at the wrong queue, and you are treated as something between an idiot and a bad child.

But we had another reason for getting to the airport early. 

Delta Airlines, in their infinite wisdom, decided to seat MBW and myself in different rows on the flight, even though it was evident that we were on the same booking and travelling together.

Every request that we made to have this decision reconsidered was met with “you’ll need to discuss that with …” and sent us off to see someone else.

In the end, we were told that the flight was “now under control of the airport staff and we would need to raise this at the airport, but you will need to get there a bit early”.

So get there a bit early we did. And raise it with the airport staff we did, and we were told that “you’ll need to discuss that with …” and sent us off to see someone else.

Long story short? We sat in different rows on the same flight because Delta Airlines does not understand the meaning of customer service.

Or maybe they just hate Australians.

So here we are in LAX, waiting to board our last flight to BNE – home.

LAX Gate 134, waiting to board VA008 to BNE, Australia

We are feeling both happy and sad about that.

But it will be nice to sleep in my own bed for a change.

Here is today’s song: Home (Michael Bublé).

Ciao

#G&KTAKEUSA2019

Ooh wah, ooh wah cool, cool kitty, tell us about the boy from New York City

Peter Allen once wrote that he’s “…been to cities that never close down…” and included New York in that list.

MBW and I have just arrived home (11.25pm) from a concert at Carnegie Hall, it’s -4°C but feels like -11°C, and it’s been snowing.

Temperature – Manhattan NYC
Snow on cars – Brooklyn NYC

Despite all of that, we caught the subway with hundreds – no, thousands – of other people. In fact, it was standing room only on the train for parts of the trip home.

But that’s stuff that has happened at the end of the day. Let me start at the beginning.

It was cold this morning too.

We got up and planned our day. The High Line, followed by a foot tour of places to eat and things to see, then see what the rest of the day brings. Then a concert – Keith and Krysten Getty – at Carnegie Hall.

Our last full day in NYC and we were going to make the most of it.

The forecast for today was sunny … and cold, of course, but I’m not going to beat that drum any longer.

We played subway ninja again and hopped on the train – well, trains – into the city. No one train ever takes us to where we want to go.

I mentioned yesterday about how the subway trains start (and stop, for that matter) with unexpected and unnecessary violence.

We were watching this young Asian guy on the train heading into The High Line this morning. He planted his feet about the width of his shoulders apart, closed his eyes, did not hold onto anything, and stood rock solid for the whole journey.

He either has greater ninja powers than I have, or he has a core of steel.

There must have been a great deal of clenching going on, I think.

His display of balance tells me that he certainly wouldn’t fall off a Segway.

We got out at West 34th Street and experienced a small miracle of our own … a miracle on 34th Street, in case you missed that one.

The sky was blue. The sun was shining.

We were on The High Line.

High Line – NYC
The High Line – NYC
The High Line – NYC
The High Line – NYC
The High Line – NYC
The High Line – NYC
The High Line – NYC

The High Line is an old, disused railway track that was due to be demolished, but was saved and turned into an elevated walkway. It’s one of the “must do” things in NYC.

The High Line – NYC
The High Line – NYC

At the start of The High Line, we also found the stabling yard for the subway trains where they are allegedly cleaned and allegedly serviced … but that is all of probably very little interest to most readers.

Here is a photo anyway.

Subway trains stabling yard – NYC
Subway train stabling yard – NYC

After we had walked The High Line – about 3km – we wanted to do a foot tour around the Lower East Side. It was a guide that MBW had found on line.

First stop was the Yonah Schimmel Knishery where we had a potato knish. It’s like mashed potato wrapped and baked in pastry.

Yonah Schimmel Knishery – NYC
Knish – NYC

Mr Yonah has been making knishes since 1890.

Not long after we left the Knishery, we saw a truck parked in the street.

Truck – NYC

Closer inspection of his truck revealed that the company name is “Call-A-Head” …

Call-A-Head truck – NYC

… with the motto that “We’re #1 an picking up #2”.

Nice.

Next stop was Russ & Daughters – a deli that we wanted to visit last year when we were in NYC, but we arrived about 30 seconds after they closed.

We were there in plenty of time today, and we had a hamantashen – like a jam drop. It was good.

Russ & Daughters – NYC

We then skipped a few items on the foot tour – after all they were only stops of cultural and historical significance – and not places to eat.

Next stop was the Sugar Sweet Sunshine Bakery where we had an Ooey Gooey Chocolate Cupcake, followed by Java Jive Pudding.

Sugar Sweet Sunshine Bakery – NYC

In the last day or so, I made a comment that could have caused you to believe that New Yorkers are all rude, obnoxious and unhelpful.

I need to retract that statement because in our foodie walking tour today, we had 2 or 3 people come up to us as we were consulting our list and Google Maps, asking if we needed help or directions.

After the SSSB, we needed lunch … no, I don’t really understand that either 🙁

We found the Essex Markets and we had empanadas (like a savoury pastry) and rugelach (like a cross between a biscuit and a puff pastry).

Probably not the wisest of dietary choices, but after 4 weeks of poor choices, why start now?

We then needed to walk off some of those calories, so we walked half-way across the Williamsburg Bridge.

Williamsburg Bridge – NYC
Williamsburg Bridge – NYC

You may have noticed that my whole body including my face is covered. This is in response to the increasing cold.

My phone is set up for facial recognition – let’s just say that it was having difficulties finding or recognising my face, so I had to keep using my fingerprint instead.

We caught the subway back to Times Square to have a final look around, and kill off some time until dinner and the concert tonight at Carnegie Hall.

Times Square – NYC
Times Square – NYC
Times Square – NYC

While we were walking around Times Square and along 5th Ave, I got the most exciting message that I have ever received on my phone …

Snow warning – NYC

… and snow it did! The heaviest downfall we have experienced.

Snow – NYC
Snow – NYC
Snow – NYC
Snow – NYC

I’ll have to tell you about Carnegie Hall tomorrow – it’s late and I’m tired 🙁

Here is today’s song: Boy From New York City (Manhattan Transfer).

Ciao

#G&KTAKEUSA2019

I feel it in my fingers, I feel it in my toes …

It was cold again today.

I know that it is probably redundant starting each post with that same statement, but the weather is quite variable.

Some days have a forecast nudging double digits and sunny, and others – like tomorrow – have a forecast low of -8°C.

So I’ll say it again. It was cold again today. And wet – very wet.

Actually, that’s a hint for today’s song.

Manhattan NYC temperature

Unlike yesterday that was 2°C all day, it only got up to 1°C today … and when you take the wind and rain into consideration, it feels like -3°C.

So it was another 5 layer day today. The ratty flannelette shirt got another wearing – that’s two days in a row – but nobody will know, and I can be quite certain that nobody will see it.

Yeah, right …

There was a forecast for snow last night. It sounded like rain to us, but what do we know?

So we got up this morning, did the usual morning stuff, put on 5 layers, picked up 2 umbrellas, and opened our front door expecting to have to dig our way out through a 3 foot snow drift.

No such luck.

What sounded like rain really was rain.

I promised some photos of our digs in Brooklyn. Nothing like Sesame Street from last year. In fact nothing like anything I’ve had before.

Our AirBnB is down those stairs. We are living in a basement apartment.

It’s very pleasant and comfortable and warm, but when I give it serious thought it seems a bit weird to be living below street level.

Home in Brooklyn – NYC
Front gate – Brooklyn NYC
Looking down Lexington Ave Brooklyn – NYC

The photo above shows the way that we walk to get to our local subway station – Classon Ave – 1 block that way then turn right and go 3 blocks up.

Lexington Ave Brooklyn – NYC

The picture above is looking the other way from our AirBnB. Funnily enough, we haven’t ever gone that way yet, so not sure what is up there.

We pondered taking a subway ride out to Coney Island but there were 2 problems with that:

  1. Because the subway is underground, you have nothing to see for the whole journey; and
  2. it was 1 hour to Coney Island from our AirBnB … and while we had only loose plans for the day, we were going to lose 2 hours just travelling there and back.

So the new plan for the day was to wander NYC taking it all in. The rain will not stop us!

We had an umbrella causality before we had even made it one block from home, with one of the umbrella arms breaking in the wind. So we returned home, got another umbrella from the ones that the AirBnB owner had left for us, and we started again.

We played subway ninjas again today, starting with the G train at our local subway station, Classon Ave.

We decided to walk The High line today first thing. The G train to Court Square Station then swap to the 7 train to 34th Street/Hudson Yards Station where we start the walk.

Nothing was going to stop us, not even a little bit of rain.

So we got to 34th Street/Hudson Yards Station and it was pouring rain. Cold, wet, and miserable. Wet, wet, wet.

That’s a huge clue for today’s song. Actually, it’s the answer!

34th Street Station – Manhattan NYC

While it might seem obvious, the subway system runs on various levels … so sometimes you find that you get off one train, and go down 2 subway levels to another subway to continue your journey.

The 34th Street Station is a long way underground, so the escalator to get out to ground level is one of the longest that we have ever seen.

Escalator that goes on forever – 34th Street Station – Manhattan NYC

I contemplated “Stairway to Heaven” for tonight’s song based on the escalator ride, because it felt like we were going that far.

We got out of 34th Street Station ready to walk The High Line and it was so wet and cold that we decided not to do it after all.

So we made an executive decision that if walking in the rain was not going to happen, we needed to do something else that involved staying inside and staying dry.

What is a girl to do when it is raining? Go shopping. And where does a girl go shopping?

Bloomingdales – Manhattan NYC
Bloomingdales – Manhattan NYC

Bloomingdales!

So we went subway surfing again and somewhere on the way to Bloomingdales we had our 2nd umbrella causality … a gust of wind and the umbrella went inside out and snapped … and it ended up in a rubbish bin along with a half-dozen other dead umbrellas.

MBW used the sole surviving umbrella while I pulled my hood over my head and tried to stay as dry as possible.

Now Bloomingdales is no Saks 5th Ave, but it is still pretty swishy. MBW found a lovely coat reduced from $1,295 to $925.

If you stood for more than 5 seconds at the store directory trying to find something, a gentleman in a dinner suit would come up and offer assistance.

It was THAT sort of place. I couldn’t wait to check out the rest rooms.

It was pretty warm inside Bloomingdales – as I have previously discussed in earlier posts – so I started to do the disrobe dance.

Backpack and gloves off.

Outer jacket off.

Next layer off.

Hoodie unzipped.

Uh-oh – what’s this? A ratty flannelette shirt is the next layer down. Bummer, I’d forgotten about that and hadn’t expected to be in Bloomingdales.

And I thought that being 4 layers down it would never be seen 🙁

There are not a lot of people that can wear a ratty flannie in Bloomingdales and make it look good … am I’m certainly not one of them.

I suspect that most of the Bloomingdales shoppers probably thought I was homeless 🙁

We escaped from Bloomingdales without having to take out a mortgage on our house and went in search of food.

We found a Target store and replaced Frances’ (the lady who owns our AirBnB) broken umbrella.

We found a pizza joint that had “2 slices of cheese pizza and a 20oz Coke for $5.95 + tax” special, so that was lunch.

By that time we were cold and wet and we decided that there was little that we could do that we really wanted to achieve, and that did not involve walking in the rain, so we decided to call it a day and head back to Brooklyn.

It was about 2.30pm by now and there was only 2 hours of daylight remaining, so we hopped onto the subway again.

On the subway – NYC

Yesterday I mentioned the way that the majority of subway travellers behave on the train – by zoning out. I had been pondering the fact that people do not engage in loud obnoxious phone conversations on the train, like can happen in Australia … and then I realised why – down in the tunnels you get no mobile phone signal, so there is not point trying to make a call.

But I have also noticed that New Yorkers make up for the lost phone time on the subway, by talking incessantly when above ground … and they normally talk with their phones on speaker so you get to listen to both sides of their conversation!

On the way back to the nearest subway station we stumbled across a Home Depot (a bit like a Bunnings, but a bit more up-market) and browsed around in there for a while.

Then we decided to go to Whole Foods Market at Brooklyn and pick up something for dinner.

They appear to be an Amazon-run grocery store, but also have a help-yourself hot and cold food and salad bar where they sell meals by the pound.

For those of you born after about 1970, a pound is a unit of weight and = 0.454kg. Just in case you didn’t know …

You can load up your little take-away box with whatever you want and pay for it by weight at the counter.

The meals are quite cheap and have lots of variety, so that has been dinner for the last few nights.

Rain – Brooklyn NYC
Rain – Brooklyn NYC

Google Maps instructed us to take our faithful b52 bus back to home, so we were both subway ninjas and bus ninjas again today.

We are certainly getting our $33 of value out of our 7 day unlimited ride Metro cards.

You only pay to get on, and you travel a journey regardless of the distance or time. Once you exit the subway station or bus, the journey ends.

And we get 7 days of unlimited journeys.

Last time we were in NYC last year, we used to hop onto the subway to cool off. This year it is to warm up and dry off.

So that about wraps up the day.

Home, dinner, coffee, chocolate.

MBW has started the packing process, so I guess that signals that we are almost at the end of the holiday.

There was one thing that happened yesterday that I forgot to report on. I had said that we spent a lovely afternoon walking down 5th Ave looking at the lights and window displays.

If you are not familiar with 5th Ave, it is a pretty exclusive street with some high-end shops.

It also functions as the dividing line up the middle of Manhattan – anything on the eastern side of 5th Ave is (eg) East 52nd Street and anything on the western side is West 52nd Street … so when you look at the street name (and without knowing exactly where you are), you can tell which side of 5th Ave you are on.

One of the shops on 5th Ave I’ve mentioned previously is Saks 5th Ave. Another is …

Tiffany & Co – 5th Ave NYC

Tiffany’s.

MBW wanted to browse inside, but I put my foot down.

If I’m not allowed to browse Victoria’s Secret or the M&M shop on Times Square, then it only seems fair that she shouldn’t be allowed to browse Tiffany.

Tomorrow has a forecast for sunny and a temperature range from -8°C to a maximum of 3°C.

Tomorrow’s forecast – NYC

So long as it is sunny, I can deal with the cold.

I’ve already given you all the clues to today’s song, but in case you still haven’t made the connection, it is sung by a group whose name matched today’s weather … so here it is for your enjoyment: Love is all around (Wet Wet Wet).

Ciao

#G&KTAKEUSA2019

Oh the weather outside is frightful, but the fire is so delightful, and since we’ve no place to go

… let snow, let it snow, let it snow.

Today was a 5 layer day. Long sleeved tee shirt, flanelette shirt, sweater, jacket #1, jacket #2.

If you count the scarf, 6 layers.

The problem with a 5 layer day is that you are wedged in so tightly that when you get on the subway, you can’t sit down. There is not enough wiggle room to accommodate sitting.

So you have to undo a couple of the layers.

But 5 layers was necessary because the day started at 2°C and never got any higher than that.

For the whole day. It’s like NYC’s temperature gauge was broken, and it was stuck at 2°C.

2°C all day – NYC

Today we were booked to go to see the Rockettes at Radio City Music Hall – just across the road from the Rockefeller Centre, and not far from Times Square.

We normally get on the Subway on the G line, and our local station is Classon Aven-oo.

Today Google Maps thought that it would spice it up a little for us, and sent us to Franklin Aven-oo on the C line instead. A little bit further than Classon Aven-oo, but in the opposite direction.

The C line is the one we used to catch when we were here last time, staying in Sesame Street, and it goes directly into Manhattan which is quite convenient.

Which reminds me – I must give you some photos of where we are staying this time.

So the Rockettes didn’t start until 11.00am and it didn’t take long to get there, so we had a real sleep-in today.

Ablutions, breakfast, coffee, put on 5 layers of clothes, and head out the door.

If I said that 2°C is bracing, I’d probably be understating it. It is probably closer to numbing.

Not that I’m complaining, just observing. I’ll probably complain later in the post about the cold.

Last year when we were here I made some comments about the announcements on the subway. It continues to amuse me, so I figure that I can still get more mileage out of it again this year.

On the NYC Metro subway system, they use a female voice to make announcements, and a male voice to give instructions.

So you get this smooth as silk female voice telling you that “the next station is 4th Aven-oo and that you can change to the R, S or Q trains”, and then you get this male voice bark at you to “stand clear of the closing doors, please”.

NYC metro subway users are a different breed to Queensland Rail passengers. NYC subway passengers have to try not to fall over when the train starts and stops with an unusual, and unnecessary degree of violence, but they also need to ignore all of the beggars and weirdos on the train.

And I can tell you that there are usually beggars, and always lots of weirdos on the NYC metro.

On top of that, the trains are really quite disgustingly dirty.

So NYC passengers assume this look of bovine detachment and/or check Facebook on their phones.

New Yorkers don’t make eye-contact. They certainly don’t (generally) do anything helpful, and have a pre-disposition to either shove you out of the way or tell you to get out of their way.

So they are an interesting crowd. Not that I am complaining, again just making an observation.

And then we had a young couple get on the C train a couple of stops after us this morning, and they started doing kissy-face.

The fact that the train was pretty crowded and they were jammed up hard against each other clearly encouraged them, but it was pretty intense.

I actually wondered at one stage if he was giving her CPR, but apparently not.

They finally stopped and started a meaningless conversation about something, then she was preparing to get off the train and so they started goodbye and have a lovely day, I miss you already kissy-face.

Sigh.

We got to Radio City Music Hall at around 10.00 for an 11.00 start, and the crowds were already surging inside, so we followed the flow.

Radio City Music Hall – NYC
Radio City Music Hall – NYC

The place was crawling with NYPD – directing traffic, directing pedestrians.

Waiting to get into RCMH – NYC

Inside, the RCMH is absolutely stunning, in an old world charm kind of way.

Their rest rooms are called a ladies room and a gentleman’s room … and even the rest rooms are worth going to RCMH to see 🙂

Radio City Music Hall – NYC
Radio City Music Hall – NYC
Radio City Music Hall – NYC

Like everywhere in NYC, the RCMH was heated to a pleasant, don’t need 5 layers kind of temperature, so we both shed a few layers and got comfortable.

And then at about 10.50am, 2 pipe organs rolled out from either side of the stage, and they proceeded to play duelling Christmas Carols.

Pipe organs – Radio City Music Hall – NYC
Pipe organs – Radio City Music Hall – NYC

As part of the show this year, they had a 3D segment that they showed, so everyone got a pair of 3D glasses.

Radio City Music Hall – NYC

The show started, and the Rockettes were absolutely spectacular. Everything that we have heard about them is true.

Graceful, synchronised, talented … it was an amazing show that involved a great deal of singing and dancing and told the Christmas story.

The whole of the RCMH auditorium appears to be covered with LED panels, so in addition to the action on the stage, there was a light show broadcast across the stage, walls and ceiling.

I haven’t included any photographs or video of the show because it wasn’t allowed.

If you broke the rules, an usher will shine a torch at you and tell you to put it away. I know that for a fact, because it happened to someone sitting near me.

The seating capacity of RCMH is about 6,000, and I’d say it was pretty much at capacity for the show we saw. My understanding is that this is normal for every show of the Christmas Spectacular.

Considering how much we paid for the tickets – and we only sat in the nose-bleed section – I expected that we would get a Rockette to take home as a souvenir … but I was mistaken.

But it was still a great show and we would both be happy to see it again.

Rockettes – Radio City Music Hall – NYC

Something that made the day even more spectacular was that as we walked out of RCMH into the street, it was snowing!

Very lightly, but snowing all the same!

Snowing – NYC

After the show finished at about 12.30pm, we headed back up to Columbus Circle to grab some lunch and explore Central Park.

Central Park is a man-made park and is 840 acres (340 hectares) in size.

Manhattan NYC

Central Park is the very large, green rectangle in the middle of Manhattan NYC.

We wandered around the south end of the park and it snowed very lightly the whole time that we were there – pretty exciting!

Not enough to see in a photograph, and certainly not enough to build a snowman, but snowing.

Central Park – NYC
Central Park – NYC
Central Park – NYC
Central Park – NYC
Central Park – NYC

We found the famous ice-skating rink and it was pretty busy.

Ice-skating rink – Central Park – NYC
Ice-skating rink – Central Park – NYC

After Central Park we were both pretty cold and in need of a caffeinated beverage, so we started a walk down 5th Avenue to look at the window displays and Christmas lights.

There are some pretty spectacular displays on 5th Avenue.

5th Avenue – NYC
Window displays Bergdorf Goodman – 5th Ave NYC
Window displays Bergdorf Goodman – 5th Ave NYC

Saks 5th Avenue featured Frozen for the displays. That was appropriate because that’s how I was feeling. Frozen.

Saks 5th Avenue – NYC
Saks 5th Avenue – NYC
Saks 5th Avenue – NYC

We kept walking down 5th Avenue until we got to 34th Street and went into Macy’s to get out of the cold for a while.

Macy’s 34th Street – NYC
Macy’s 34th Street – NYC

One of the things that you notice as you walk around NYC is that drivers of all vehicles seem to believe that there is a direct relationship between how long, and loud, they honk their horn, and how quickly they move through the traffic.

We were on a b52 bus the other day and as he came to every street and intersection, he’d honk his horn.

The other thing that you notice is that there are NYPD cars constantly patrolling the streets – both in Manhattan and across Brooklyn.

If you are walking, it is unusual to walk more that a block and not see a police vehicle either patrolling or stopped at the side of the road with it’s blue lights flashing.

They are constantly sounding the siren to move along traffic that is illegally parked.

In the city itself, there is normally a NYPD vehicle parked on every corner – particularly around Times Square, Radio City Music Hall and Trump Tower.

NYC Public Library – NYC

I’ve spoken previously about how hard it is to adjust between being inside where the temperature is normally around 24°C and you are sweltering wearing 5 layers, and outside where it can be 2°C and 5 layers are barely enough.

Last night on the way home on the subway, I was sweating like a horse and couldn’t work out why – it was just so hot on the train.

It was like I was having a private vacation in the tropics.

Then I realised that I was sitting above the heating vent that heats the whole carriage … whew.

So all in all, another great day in NYC.

Rockettes. Snow. Central Park. Macy’s. Christmas lights. Coffee and a Cinnabon.

Tomorrow is forecast to be a little warmer, but 100% chance of rain. Bummer.

Maybe we will get on the subway and ride it all day from Harlem to Coney Island to stay out of the weather?

With any luck they will get it wrong and it will be sunny.

Here is today’s song for your listening pleasure: Let it snow (Michael Bublé).

Ciao

#G&KTAKEUSA

I can see clearly now the rain is gone, I can see all obstacles in my way

Today’s forecast was for fine and sunny. Not warm specifically, but not raining either.

We live in hope.

We had a Harlem Gospel Experience walking tour booked for this morning, so we had the opportunity of a sleep in.

The tour didn’t start until 9.00am.

They wanted us there by 8.30 – fair enough as people who are late hold up the tour.

To be honest, there are plenty of times I’ve given people who are habitually late a start time earlier than required in the hope they might be on time.

So we consulted Google Maps … if we need to be in Harlem by 8.30am, what time do we need to leave Brooklyn?

So here is a quick geography lesson. Brooklyn and Harlem are about as far apart as any two places can be in New York. We had to catch a b52 bus, then walk, then catch the 2 train.

Brooklyn to Harlem NYC

So to get to Harlem by 8.30am, we needed to leave our AirBnB by about 7.15am.

Which meant a 6.00am alarm 🙁

Just so you know, 6.00am in NYC in December is very dark, and cold.

7.15am is only marginally less dark. And marginally less cold.

But we made it to the bus stop to play bus ninjas this morning in plenty of time. It wasn’t dark but not fully light either.

Dark enough and cold enough that I wished I was still somewhere else – like in bed.

Waiting for a b52 bus – Brooklyn NYC

We took the bus for about 9 stops, then switched to the subway so we could be subway ninjas too.

Waiting for the subway to arrive – Brooklyn NYC

I’m standing like that because I’m cold, BTW, despite the 3 or 4 layers that I’m wearing.

We got onto the 2 train and there was a man stretched out, fast asleep on the opposite seat, and snoring like a runaway freight train.

There are a lot of homeless people in NYC, and it must be terrible to be homeless in this cold weather. The trains are warm, and once you are inside the train network, you could easily stay on a train all day or night.

While this man didn’t appear to be homeless – his clothes looked too clean and new – he certainly smelled and slept like he might have been.

Maybe he’d had a big Saturday night out and his friends were good enough to put him on the train home …?

We got to the location where our Harlem tour was due to start, and we were there with 25 or so minutes to spare.

The tour lady asked whether we wanted to use a rest room or get coffee before the tour started.

Now she either cannot understand english, or doesn’t appreciate Australian humour. The conversation went like this:

Tour lady: “Do you want to get a coffee before the tour starts?”

Me: “Is the pope Catholic?”

Tour lady: <smile> “Huh?”

Me: “Yes, coffee would be good …”

I’ve actually found something very similar happening every time we go into a shop.

Shopkeeper (after payment has been made): “Would you like a copy of the receipt?”

Me: “If you don’t mind.”

Shopkeeper: “Would you like a copy of the receipt?”

Me: “Yes please.”

Anyhow, we got coffee and used the restrooms as it was a 2 hour tour followed by a 2 hour gospel Harlem church service.

And all of the usual conditions were still in play to meet the requirement for a rest room stop: cold weather, coffee at breakfast, faulty plumbing.

You should actually expect that every time we have a stop to see something, it is accompanied by a rest room stop.

The lady who actually took our tour had a name that she said nobody would remember, and as expected, I’d forgotten it before I’d even finished the coffee. She did say, though, that we could call her “D” – that much I did remember.

So D gave us a really interesting overview of gospel music and how it evolved from slavery. She said that gospel music has 6 fundamental aspects. The ones that I remember are:

  • Intonation (singing high and low to indicate happiness and sadness)
  • Repetition
  • Response
  • Dance
  • Percussion (clapping, stamping feet)
  • and another one that I don’t recall.

She then gave us a bit of a history lesson about different styles of gospel music and how they evolved, such as negro spiritual music, through to jazz, soul, rhythm and blues, etc.

D telling us about different styles of gospel music – Harlem NYC

She then took us around the streets and showed us some black gospel churches and other architecture around Harlem.

Just for clarity, it is the congregations that are black, not the church buildings themselves.

Expensive real estate – Harlem NYC

D said that much of Harlem was originally an expensive white area, with many of the buildings designed by the same man who designed Grand Central Station, and the Empire State Building.

But after an economic depression in 1873, the rich whites lost all of their wealth and the buildings fell vacant, eventually being sold or used by the blacks – leading to the Harlem that we know and associate today as a black or coloured area.

She went on to say that gentrification is now occurring where wealthy whites are wanting to buy back into the area, and some of these homes are selling for $20M+.

Expensive real estate – Harlem NYC
Expensive real estate – Harlem NYC

She also took us past some large gospel churches. One in particular – the Abyssinian Baptist Church which has 3,000 to 4,000 people on their membership roll, and regularly get 1,000 turn up for Sunday services.

So here is a puzzle: If they get 1,000 people turn up and you assume that there is an average of 3 people in each car, there are 300+ cars – so where do they all park?

Parking outside church – Harlem NYC
Parking outside church – Harlem NYC

Answer: They double park. In the top photo, the cars with their brake lights on are trying to get through the street, often to drop people off at church.

The cars are parked so close together that you actually cannot walk between them.

D went on to say that the church also gets involved in politics by telling black kids their rights in the event that they are questioned by police.

Street art telling black kids their rights – Harlem NYC
Street art telling black kids their rights – Harlem NYC

After the walking tour, we were able to sit in on the Salem United Methodist Church gospel service at 11.00am.

Without trying to be disrespectful, it was very much like you would picture the service to be – music (electronic organ in particular) playing underneath everything that happened, lots of clapping, lots of dancing, lots of spontaneous calling out, lots of colour.

Stained glass window in the Salem United Methodist church – Harlem NYC

The service went for 2 hours, although I suspect that it was a special Christmas service.

After the service which finished at 1.00pm, MBW and I headed back downtown towards Times Square because we wanted to see a Christmas presentation that we’d heard about.

But we needed to eat.

We agreed that we would eat at the first place we saw – it didn’t matter if it was pizza, McDonalds, Starbucks, Dunkin’ Donuts, whatever.

We were cold and hungry and needed fuel.

So the first place that we saw was a salad bar … and we agreed that salad wasn’t “food” in the context of being cold, hungry and needing comfort food, so we continued our search.

The next place we found was a pizza place, so we stopped there as we had agreed. It was the first place that we found that met our criteria.

MBW and her small piece of pie – NYC

MBW had chicken and BBQ, while I had chicken and mushrooms.

We only had one slice each – that was enough.

While we waited for the Christmas presentation to commence at C3.NYC, we had a bit of a browse around.

Building in NYC

This building looked like a giant jenga game.

Notice the blue sky and fluffy white clouds? Don’t be deceived – it was still only about 7°C and a very cold wind blowing.

Buildings in NYC
Selfie with the tall buildings – NYC

We finally got to the Christmas presentation which commenced about 3.20pm and it was very good, but very, very loud … or I’m getting old and cranky – not sure which.

It was a good day. We only really did a couple of key things today but they were good and we saw some interesting stuff.

Only walked about 11,000 steps today so I feel like I’m slacking off.

Today’s weather felt like it was very cold, with a top of about 8°C. Tomorrow has a forecast top of 3°C with a chance of snow, while Thursday – the day that we fly out of NYC and back to Australia – has a forecast top of -3°C.

Weather forecast – NYC

Today I think I had on 3 or 4 layers, so tomorrow I’ll probably be wearing everything I have.

We grabbed some dinner on our way home and are ready for another big day in NYC tomorrow – Monday for us.

Tomorrow we see the Rockettes. Woohoo.

Can’t wait to tell you all about it.

Today’s song, and the title of today’s post celebrates the fact that the rain has gone and it was a bright, clear, sunny New York day: I can see clearly now (Jimmy Cliff).

Ciao

#G&KTAKEUSA2019

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas, everywhere you go

Our first full day in NYC.

It wasn’t as cold today – it started out at about 10°C and got all the way up to about 13°C before the mercury started its descent once again.

Unfortunately it rained again, which makes it seem colder, and definitely makes it just a little bit more complicated.

Last year when we were staying at an AirBnB in Brooklyn NYC, the guy who owned the space put some basics into the refrigerator to get us started – juice, milk, bagels, butter.

No such luck this time – the refrigerator was empty 🙁

So we started the day today looking for some staples – milk, bagels, jam, cereal. We went to the local Family Dollar (like a 7-Eleven) and got milk, jam and raisin bran … but no bagels.

We stopped at the local Clementine Bakery and no bagels there either.

We finally found some at a little deli (that we actually thought was called Brooklyn Brewery) … so we were all set for breakfast.

Breakfast done, dishes done, MBW had made herself beautiful, and a selection of jumpers, gloves, scarves and jackets stuffed into the backpack, we set off on our adventure.

Walking the streets looking for bagels – Brooklyn NYC

The architecture in Brooklyn is quite different from Australia. Very few people have a stand-alone house – everyone lives in an apartment.

Apartment living in Brooklyn NYC
Apartment living in Brooklyn NYC

We hopped onto the subway at our local station – Classon Street – and played subway ninjas again.

Our line is an “around Brooklyn” line, so if you want to go anywhere else – Manhattan for example – you need to change trains somewhere.

We did the old swaparoo at Court Square subway station – which ironically was above ground – and took the 7 train all the way to Grand Central Terminal.

And it impressed us as much as it did last time we were in NYC!

Grand Central Terminal – Manhattan NYC
Grand Central Terminal – Manhattan NYC

Now there are a couple of funny stories here.

Firstly, when we were on the 7 train heading into Grand Central Station, there was a young guy dressed in a Santa suit.

When we got into GSC, there were a number of people dressed in Santa suits. It turns out that Santacon was in town today.

Nope, I don’t get it either.

But if you look closely at the top picture of GSC above, you will see a number of people dressed in red – the Santas.

The second funny story relates to MBW and her iPhone which has decided that she can no longer access the App Store. It happens that there is an Apple store INSIDE Grand Central Station so we went for technical support there.

Clearly the problem has something to do with an Australian iPhone, a USA SIM card …

The Apple guy tried lots and lots of things – all unsuccessful – and just before handing it back defeated, he suggested turning the phone off and on again.

Which he did.

Which reminds me of a Dilbert cartoon by Scott Adams …

Technical problems with an iPhone ….

Enough said, but the problem is now solved.

The guy who helped us said that he isn’t smart enough to be an Apple “Genius”, but he will always be a genius to MBW.

We spent the rest of the day wandering the city and enjoying the sites.

We bumped into a lady from the UK yesterday who was in NYC on a work trip, and was asking whether she should do the Empire State Building or the Rockefeller Building. We said go the Rock!

Low cloud – NYC

In reality, anywhere she went was going to have the same problem, but the Top of the Rock was shrouded in cloud for most of the day, so the viewing would have been disappointing.

We got to the Rockefeller Building and found the famous tree …

Christmas tree at the Rockefeller Building – NYC

… which we understand has about 5 miles (8 km) of lights on it, and we found the skating rink.

Ice skating at the Rockefeller Building – NYC

There must have been thousands of people watching the 10 or so people ice skating on the rink, and then this kid did a face plant.

I mean, if you are going to do a face plant while ice skating, you might as well do it in front of several thousand people!

Ice skating at the Rockefeller Building – NYC
Decorations outside the Rockefeller Building – NYC

We did the subway ninja thing again and got to Times Square, which can keep you interested for hours.

Times Square – NYC
Times Square – NYC
Times Square – NYC

There was a whole lot of Santa going on in Times Square today too.

After that we headed up to Columbus Circle to get ready for another walking tour planned for today – markets and Christmas lights.

Columbus Circle markets – NYC

Columbus Circle is at the South West corner of Central Park.

Central Park – NYC
Central Park – NYC
Central Park – NYC
Central Park – NYC

We saw lots of excellent light displays. It gets dark at 4.30pm here, so we get to see the lights nice and early.

Our favourite was probably Saks 5th Avenue. All set to music.

Saks 5th Avenue – NYC

Honestly, it felt like the whole world was out looking at lights tonight.

People, and more people – NYC
Christmas lights (and people) – NYC
Christmas lights with the Empire State Building in the background – NYC

And the NYPD were out in force keeping the people and the traffic moving.

We also saw some cars all lit up …

Christmas lights – NYC

… and a truck …

Christmas lights – NYC

We finished the tour at Bryant Park, where there is another ice skating ring for the great unwashed (ie those who can’ afford to skate at the Rockefeller Building).

Ice skating – NYC
Ice skating – NYC
Ice skating – NYC

And then back to Brooklyn for dinner.

A great day in NYC!

Almost 22,000 steps so the feet an legs are feeling a little weary. But a good weary 🙂

Tomorrow we have a another walking tour called a “Harlem Gospel Experience”. Should be fun!

NYC at Christmas is a magical place to be.

Here is Michael Bublé singing It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas (Michael Bublé).

Ciao

#G&KTAKEUSA2019