It was hot last night. Really sticky and uncomfortable.
We ended up running Percy’s air-conditioner all night because it was hot. Well, partly because it was hot, and partly because our neighbours in the Jayco were burning incense (or mossie coils) and the smell was awful. In fact, the smell was so bad that we didn’t feel like we could leave the windows open all night and deal with that smell.
So we opted for air-conditioning.
It’s funny how silly little things can invoke a really strong memory/emotional reaction.
There is a lot of back-burning going on here, plus they are burning piles of leaves that fall from the tree canopy. There was a groundsman here yesterday dragging barrow-load after barrow-load of leaves to the fire.
The heat plus the smell of fires is reminding me of a previous trip to Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe. Driving through Litchfield is giving me a similar feeling too, except that I am yet to see a herd of elephants (or zebra, or giraffes) crossing the road.
But this morning I got up and gathered my stuff to head over to the bathroom for a shower, and I had this overwhelming feeling like I was in Bali or Thailand, with the tall trees and palms, plus the sprinklers spinning lazily, plus the humidity. All very tropical.
Quite bizarre, really.
Because everything is so green and lush and tropical, there is also lots of critters around. Last night MBW was having a shower in the van and called out (with a sense of urgency in her voice), “can you come here please? There’s a large grasshopper in here …”. And I have to say it was HUGE!
This morning I went over to the amenities block for my ablutions, and I shared the space with a large, green frog. Which was nice, but a bit creepy at the same time.
Which reminds me of a story that Tom Curtain told at the concert the other night about a guy he met once named Billy who was terrified of frogs, and that resulted in a song that he sang called “Billy don’t like no hip hop”.
We are here in Litchfield NP for 3 nights. Today we purchased our “all parks pass” that – despite its name – only covers selected parks in the NT. There is really only one other NP that we are planning to see – Kakadu – and as you would expect, that requires a different pass because it is managed by the Australian Government, not the NT government.
Thanks Albo!
So we purchased our pass, which was quite an accomplishment given the appalling Telstra coverage here in the NT. It’s like the land that time forgot.
We had a choice of a one day pass ($10 each), or a 2 week pass ($30 each), or an annual pass ($60 each).
There is so much to see in Litchfield NP – refer back to the map I provided yesterday – that we elected to go for the 2 week pass. Even though it doesn’t cover Kakadu, there are lots of other national parks around Darwin that we can visit, if the urge takes us in the next 2 weeks.
So $60 poorer (that’s 2 x $30/each for those bad at maths), Percy was pointed in the right direction, and off we went.
The furtherest things to see are about 75km away by sealed road from where we are staying, so we figured that the smart thing to do was to going all the way to the end, and head back towards home, looking at the various waterfalls and swimming holes on the way.
That way, tomorrow we only have to go a shorter distance and start from the middle.
Well, that was the theory.
We drove to the Bamboo Tin Mine only to find that the road in was closed. And the big steel gate across the road did a great deal to discourage us from trying to go in and have a look anyway.
So – following our plan anyway – we started heading back towards home and stopped in at the various waterfalls and sites on the way.
Maybe with some better planning (and better internet), we may have been a little better prepared, but unfortunately most of the swimming holes are closed at the moment. It’s not entirely clear to me why that is, but two reasons seem to be emerging:
- National Reconciliation Week runs from 27 May 2024 (tomorrow) through to 03 June 2024, and (it appears) that many of the national parks are closed so that First Nations people can go “on country” (whatever that means). Why there is not enough space in the NPs for all of us I’m not sure, but that seems to be a popular opinion as to why things are closed;
- The other, and likely more important (to me) reason, possibly relates to comments that I have made previously in the blog about local flooding. We have seen it on the roads and (it appears) that local flooding = increased flow of water through the waterfalls = increased risk of crocodiles.
And none of us wants to be taken by a crocodile, especially me. I can’t imagine that it would be a pleasant way to die.
So with many of the waterfalls and swimming holes closed, we were limited to bushwalks. And many of the bushwalks are described (… or should be described) as “for the clinically insane” or “for the fanatics only”.
Let me pull a few quick thoughts together for you:
- It’s hot. As I write this, it is 33 degrees that feels like 35 degrees. (It’s also winter, if you believe the genius’ who decide what stock to put on the shelves at KMart);
- It’s fairly humid;
- Most of the bushwalks are described as “long” and “difficult” (where “long” = “allow 2-3 hours” and “difficult” = “steep, rocky, slippery, and not for the faint of heart”)
- MBW broke her foot 12 months ago, and walking anywhere can be a challenge; and
- Neither of us are in peak physical condition.
So with most of the waterholes closed and most of the bushwalks not really something that we are keen to do, we chose option #3 instead which was to drive around the National Park, in and out of all of the carparks for the various things to see, and enjoy the air-conditioning blasting cool air at a pleasant 22 degrees.
We did stop at a few of the attractions along the way, took some photos and enjoyed the spectacular views, and amazing waterfalls.
We did a short walk into one waterfall – Tolmer Falls – (the swimming-hole was closed as it is a sacred site). While the walk was only about 500m each way, I think that we both lost half our body-weight in sweat. This one was described as “easy”, but it certainly isn’t something that you would want to try in the dark, and if you are half-tanked.
As it was, it felt like we were clambering over rocks and slippery, rocky trails, and mostly forging our own way through the national park. I’m not unwilling to admit the possibility that we somehow missed the track and went the wrong way, although the track was well enough defined to find our way back out again.
I will say however that I did see lots and lots of crocs.
No, not the type that make great handbags and belts, but the footwear kind. The number of people wearing crocs to go for a bushwalk on rough and uneven tracks was quite astonishing. The heat must have affected their brains because crocs are footware that is only suitable for … um, only suitable for … um, I’ll have to think about that and come back to you.
We went into the Buley Rockpools carpark, found a shady parking spot for Elsie, climbed into our swimmers, and went for a splash in the rock pools.
And it was absolutely fabulous! The water was so clean and clear and fresh, and it was just delightful. It would have been absolutely spectacular if it wasn’t for all of the other people there with the same idea.
We have a 2 week pass so we can go back into the park again tomorrow, and have a look at some of the waterholes, waterfalls and other attractions that are closer to where we are staying.
It’s also Monday tomorrow, so with any luck it will be a bit quieter as everyone will be back at work. That’s my theory, anyway.
Back to Percy, and MBW did a couple of loads of washing and I had a nap. We’ve pulled a curry out of the freezer for dinner and we are now having a relaxing Sunday afternoon on “Territory Time”.
Everything happens slowly, we have nothing to do, and all afternoon to do it.
Territory Time. Ahhhh …
Another stunning sunset tonight. Breathtaking. We really are spoiled.
PS: OK, confession time. Both MBW and I own and wear crocs, and they are really suitable for slipping on when you need to wander over to the amenities block for a shower. I just wouldn’t wear them on a bushwalk.
Admitting it is the first step to healing.
Absolutely LOVING the Territory!!
Ciao
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