Day 9: Winton – Julia Creek

Last night – Thursday night – we went to the Dark Sky Serenade at the Age of Dinosaurs museum, our last night of opera festivities.

Not for them though. All of the opera peeps are now heading towards Longreach while MBW and I are heading towards Darwin.

Now firstly I need to get something off my chest. As luck would have it, I was seated behind a guy with an unusually large head.

Abnormally large.

Big head – Dark Sky Serenade Opera – Winton

While that was useful for blocking out the setting sun that was in my eyes, he kinda got in the way of my vision of the stage and the performers.

Which was a shame. But not the end of the world, right?

Well … as luck would also have it, his device of choice for taking photos was an iPad.

A full sized iPad … which he constantly held up above his head to try to figure out how to point and position it so that he could take multiple photos.

Anyhow, being the opera buff that I am, the experience was an auditory one, not necessarily a visual one. And I could still hear perfectly, even though I couldn’t see much.

It was a spectacular experience. The dark hauntingness (is that a word?) of the desert, with the amazing sounds of world famous opera singers, backed by the Queensland Symphony Orchestra (QSO) was astonishing.

Surreal.

Dark Sky Serenade – Winton
Dark Sky Serenade – Winton
Dark Sky Serenade – Winton
Dark Sky Serenade – Winton
Dark Sky Serenade – Winton
Dark Sky Serenade – Winton
Dark Sky Serenade – Winton
Dark Sky Serenade – Winton
Dark Sky Serenade – Winton

Now I have to confess that I don’t know much opera, and I don’t have a great deal of it on my Spotify playlist. Plus they kept singing it in Italian, with no subtitles, which really just made it difficult to follow along.

The conductor – some guy who could have been Tom Gleeson’s doppelgänger (with a sense of humour to match) – was the Head of Artistic Something-Or-Other from Opera West Australia. He tended to get a bit too excited about operas in 6/8 time and quivering quavers for my liking. But then he probably doesn’t understand amateur radio.

And he did dumb down the plot of one particular piece that they performed.

“Boy falls in love with girl. Girl dies. Boy cries.”

The final piece that they performed was Puccini’s Nessun Dorma, which I’m sure that you will recognise, even if you are as much of an uneducated Philistine as I am.

It was performed by some guy – a tenor – who apparently is world famous, even though I confess that I’ve never heard of him.

There were people there who (apparently) came out on a charter flight, plus people on bus tours, and of course all of the giants of Opera Queensland were there hobnobbing with the Minister for Whatever and the Arts. Probably 500 people in all.

Jason Two-Dads was there again, and he sang a couple of pieces.

Of course they all got a standing ovation at the end, so they graciously and spontaneously performed “something that was written around here”, namely Waltzing Matilda.

And we were all invited to sing along. So …

… technically, I can honestly say that I have sung Waltzing Matilda, accompanied by the Queensland Symphony Orchestra, and backed up by some world-famous opera singers … and at the end of that performance, the audience erupted into wild and rapturous applause.

Beat that!

It was a great night. Beautiful music, and beautiful voices, all performed in a stunning desert environment.

We were home by 8.00pm, caffeinated by 8.30pm, and in bed by 10.00pm.

I think I mentioned yesterday that I have finished the Tattooist, and now I am looking for something else to read. And having trouble finding something that I can get into. I’m thinking that I might try Faye Kellerman, but happy to hear your suggestions.

I currently enjoy Lee Child (Jack Reacher) and Nelson DeMille (John Covey). But I’m happy to try something new. Leave me a comment with suggestions. The best suggestion wins 🙂

I feel bad that I am being lazy sleeping in until 7.30 or later each morning, but I have an excuse.

I’m sure that you all know that we were in Winton the last few days, and Winton is waaaay over there where the sun sets. Yes, in the west.

But while we are much further west, we are still in the same timezone as home. Home’s sunrise is currently 6.21am (in the east of Queensland), while Winton’s sunrise is 6.53 (in the west of Queensland). That’s more than 30 minutes later!

That’s my excuse, anyway.

It was a cool start to the day again today. Our neighbours – who we have spoken to, but not exchanged names with – come from Townsville and were walking around this morning dressed as though they were ready to commence an assault on Mt Everest.

Personally, while I acknowledge that it was cool, I didn’t think that it was THAT cold, so we settled for our regular shorts and T-shirts.

Toast and coffee for breakfast this morning. (Can you tell that I’m running out of content for the blog?)

MBW tidied the house, while I went out to capture a tiger or two to put in Elsie’s tank. She only took $125 worth this morning, and it concerns me that I can say “only” and “$125” in the same sentence.

We rolled out of the Winton Wanderers CP around 9.00am and headed west to Kynuna. A road that we have never travelled before.

Never.

Rolling out of Winton
Rolling out of Winton

Today we are travelling towards Julia Creek. We will be travelling the road towards Cloncurry (north west) and turning off just before Kynuna, to the north.

Good roads, fast, smooth, and wide.

And every-so-often you see an unusual land formation that breaks the monotony.

Winton-Kynuna Road
Winton-Kynuna Road
Winton-Kynuna Road

I continue to be astonished by the variety of levels of helpfulness that you see in other road users. One minute we were sitting behind a van, when the driver calls us on the CB radio and offers to slow down and pull over so that we could pass.

20 minutes later we were sitting behind another numpty who was doing 25km/h under the speed limit, wandering all over his lane, hogging the centre line, blocking all forward view of oncoming traffic, providing no clue whether it was safe to pass, and was entirely and completely unhelpful.

Seriously, you can understand how accidents happen.

We had previously picked up the local tourist guide for the area, and it gave us several compelling reasons why Kynuna is not a place to “just drive through”, but a place to stop and visit, and enjoy.

So we drove past the turnoff and kept going a further 5km or so to Kynuna to stop and visit. And enjoy.

They lied.

Kynuna has a population of 20, and I’m certain that we didn’t see a single, solitary one of them. Not one.

Kynuna

So we turned around, drove the 5km back to the turnoff to Julia Creek, and kept on going.

Kynuna – Julia Creek
Kynuna – Julia Creek

They are seriously lacking in imagination out in these parts. Guess what the Kynuna to Julia Creek road is called?

Kynuna-Julia Creek Road.

Guess what the Winton to Richmond road is called?

Winton-Richmond Road.

And if they include the word “Developmental” into the road name – eg Winton-Richmond Developmental Road, that is generally code for “unsealed road, drive at your peril”.

The road from Kynuna to JC (aka the Kynuna-JC Road) was a single lane, sealed road that was smooth and fast, and I needed to set the cruise control so that my speed didn’t keep creeping up to 110km/h.

We did need to slow down or stop a couple of times, and they were because of road trains coming the other way9 (there simply wasn’t enough space on the road for us AND a road train), or because of these cattle grids that were really rough and threatened to either cause your suspension to bottom out, or to cause you to become airborne.

Kynuna – JC Road
Kynuna – JC Road

We rolled into Julia Creek (population 511) around 12.30pm, and went looking for the Visitor Information Centre. We are planning to stop at a free RV park just outside town, but we needed to get a permit first.

Free to stay here, but a permit is required. And you cannot drop anything on the ground. No grey water, nothing.

I said to the lady at the Visitor Information Centre that I had always wanted to visit Julia Creek. Her response probably summed up everything you need to know about Julia Creek and the level of excitement that you can expect here.

“Why?”

Well, that is a very good question, and I’ll have to give some though to why I have always wanted to visit JC.

So we got our permit and decided to have a pub lunch for a change. 2 x Parmys with salad and chips, followed by a walk through town.

Julia Creek
Julia Creek

We went for a quick walk up one side of the main street and back the other, and that was about it. I saw a guy getting a gas bottle filled at the local hardware store, and asked how much … because I also have an empty bottle on the van.

Remember Augathella?

$49.95 for a 9kg gas bottle. $24.95 at home.

Sigh 🙁

Maybe I can wait until we get to Mt Isa?

We found the RV park, found a spot by the water and have had a bit of a rest waiting for sunset to arrive.

We have a few feathered friends turned up to say hello. Ducks and chickens, although one of the chickens has been crowing, which means two things:

  • He’s not a chicken, and
  • He has no idea what time it is.
JC RV Park – Julia Creek
JC RV Park – Julia Creek
JC RV Park – Julia Creek
JC RV Park – Julia Creek
JC RV Park – Julia Creek
JC RV Park – Julia Creek
JC RV Park – Julia Creek
JC RV Park – Julia Creek
JC RV Park – Julia Creek

That’s about it. I think that we are all caught up now.

Tonight we stay here in the Julia Creek RV park, and tomorrow we travel through Cloncurry (population 3,167) and stay at the Mary Kathleen Abandoned township.

Well, that’s the plan, anyway. And you know what they say about a plan …

A plan is only good until the first punch is thrown. Hopefully there will be no punching tonight!

One final thing: I know that you have all been worried sick that I have forgotten to give you the answer on a cup of Winton (smelly) water being allowed to decant all night in the fridge. Is it the best water you’ve ever tasted, or was the lady at the shop having a go at us?

Well, we tried it. It wasn’t smelly any longer and it was nice water. Not necessarily the best water that I’ve ever tasted, but not the worst either.

Cold, wet and refreshing.

What more can I say?

Ciao

#Retirement2024

#VanLife

Day 8: Winton

Winton, Thursday.

What a cracker of a day. Not a cloud in the sky, low 20s, a cool breeze blowing. Shorts and T-shirt weather.

It’s been warm going to bed at night, but we generally pull up the blanket around 5.30am as it starts to cool off. But I’m not complaining.

Fabulous, darlings!

Yesterday afternoon we went for a bit of a drive, just to see the sights.

When I say “we went for a bit of a drive”, we didn’t go far, because there are not many places to see without going a long way. But it was a spectacularly beautiful afternoon. Although the water stinks out here, the air is clean and fresh.

Look at that sky!

Winton
Winton
Winton

We are staying at the Winton Wanderers Caravan Park, out on the western (left) side of the image above. Where the blue dot is.

And when I say “to see the sights”, I use that term loosely.

We found the road to Hughenden (north), and the road to Jundah (south), and the road to Longreach (east), and the road to Cloncurry (west – that is tomorrow’s road out of town, into the unknown).

That’s it, just 4 roads out of town. Plus Arno’s wall, a coffee shop, and a musical fence.

And 3 (maybe 4) pubs.

We also found the Winton railway station, except that it didn’t display any Queensland Rail signage … so maybe the QR Travel services stop at Longreach. You’d think that I’d know stuff like that, having worked at QR 🙁

Last night was Opera Queensland’s “Do we need another hero” production. This was a free event that was held at the Crackup Sister’s Dust Arena. It is a local attraction where small comedy shows are put on, and the reason it is called the Dust Arena will become obvious soon.

The production was very well done (as usual), and was a musical examination of all of the heros that we have in our lives, including Superman, Hercules, etc, along with everyday heros including Mum and Dad. They even worked a local hero into the story – a lady who has spent 22 years in Winton helping underprivileged people here in the outback.

This was obviously a pretty big deal last night, because the Board of Directors of OQ, and also the Minister for lots of things including Arts all appeared to be present. They were all pretty obviously arty-farty types, sitting in the front two rows with their fancy clothes, weird glasses, bottles of wine, and hyphenated surnames.

I don’t know where they are all staying out here. I can’t imagine them bringing a caravan, and there are certainly no 5-star hotels out this way. In fact, I can’t imagine that there is much accommodation out here at all; certainly not enough for all of the performers, plus the OQ Board, plus the Minister and her entourage.

I hope that they are not staying at the North Gregory Hotel, because by my reckoning it must be due to burn down again any time soon.

Anyhow, they all laughed hysterically at things that I (clearly) didn’t understand, like when Jason Barry-Smith (another hyphenated surname from the night before) started singing some aria in Italian.

As I said, it was all a bit lost on me.

But it was a great show. They told the story of heros, and sang lots of stuff that related to heros such as “We don’t need another hero”, “Billy, don’t be a hero”, “Man in the mirror”, and stuff in Italian that was obviously real opera about heros.

Anyhow, it was a great night. And they had lamingtons for sale at intermission! When was the last time you got lamingtons served at intermission?

Do we need another hero – Winton
Do we need another hero – Winton

You can see the OQ Instagram page for last night’s event here. Make sure you turn the sound on.

We slept well last night. Well, I slept well and MBW says that she did too. I must have slept well because at some unearthly hour, MBW elbows me in the side and announced that it was 7.45am. Time to get up.

The usual ablutions and breakfast, gave Percy a quick tidy, and invested $4.00 in a washing machine to do the weekly washing of the big stuff – sheets, towels, jeans, etc.

We do have a washing machine in Percy, but it is only good for smalls. Half a dozen pairs of undies and it is about at capacity.

Washing hung out, and we were back off to the Dust Arena for the Crackup Sisters show this morning. It was a fun morning of typical Aussie slapstick humour and whip cracking on an outdoor stage. And audience participation, whether you wanted to participate or not.

I’m not sure that Michael from Wynnum (a couple of pictures below, in a dress), was particularly enthusiastic about being part of the show – particularly when he’d paid $20 to see it, but he got in on the fun and we all had a good laugh at him.

The Minister for lots of things including the Arts was there again, so Parliament mustn’t be sitting at the moment, or she must be hiding from her boss.

Or she needs another portfolio to keep herself and her entourage busy.

Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton

As well as the show, our entry fee included a tour of the museum … which, according to my untrained eye just seemed like a whole bunch of junk that should have been taken to the tip years ago. Kinda like Arno’s wall … cement your junk into a concrete wall and suddenly becomes a tourist attraction.

Huh?

Hmmm … maybe I could turn my office at home into a tourist attraction, because it has a whole bunch of junk lying around that should have been taken to the tip years ago …

It’s hard to appreciate just how isolated you are out here. On most of the roads leading out of Winton there is a sign that warns you how far you have to go to find your next fuel stop in that direction. Having a tiger in your tank is really all that matters.

Winton
Winton – 374km to next fuel stop (South)
Winton – 213km to next fuel stop (North)
Winton

You also have to watch out for the road trains. The picture above shows one taking up most of the road to Jundah, with 4 trailers. I assume that makes it a B-Quadruple?

And there was 2 of them, one after the other. And the road to Jundah is hardly a 4 lane highway.

We stopped off at the local grocery shop to get some essentials. Last time we were out here at Winton, I recall that there was only one shop, but now there are two shops. I also recall that the prices were extortionate … but with 2 local shops there seems to be more competition and prices are more reasonable.

In fact, I don’t know that we paid a great deal more out here than we do at home for stuff like milk, Jatz, and bottled water.

The water out here – direct from the Artesian basin – is pretty stinky, with a strong sulphur smell. You get out of the shower smelling worse than when you got in!

But the lady at the shop tells us that if you get a bottle of the water and put it in the fridge, it is the nicest water that you will ever taste.

I’m not sure whether that is a joke that the locals play on the tourists, or a fact, but we will give it a try and report back tomorrow.

The lady at the shop – also from Brisbane apparently, although she says she was born out here, lived in Brisbane, and has returned – went to some pains to tell us how safe it is out here. We noticed yesterday that the local coffee shop (the “Lost Poet” from yesterday, remember?) leaves all of their tables and chairs outside when they close up for the day.

She told us that the only “trouble” she can recall is when a car caught fire, and how everyone comes together to assist when someone has a problem.

Which reminds me of a line from OQ’s hero presentation last night: “Pickles are great, until you are in one”.

Nice to know that if we find ourselves in a pickle, one of the 1600 people who live here will help out.

On the subject of safety though, I do need to note that there is a big sign inside the toilet doors saying “WARNING: BEWARE OF SNAKES!”, that then go on to tell you not to get to close to a snake if you see one.

Why they need to give you this warning when you are in the loo I have no idea, but it certainly incentivises you to hurry up and not hang around for too long.

One of the things that we were happy to do on this trip was not be in a hurry. That means that there will be times when we just have a bit of a rest day.

Today was one of those days. As I’ve said previously, we have been to Winton previously and there are not a huge number of touristy things to do here … and we have already been for a drive around town a couple of times, so we just had a quiet afternoon.

MBW made toasties for lunch, and then we just poked around for a while.

I tried to think of some clever and witty things to say in the blog, and MBW went inside to read her book. I finished the Tattooist of Auschwitz today, and then I was ready for a nap.

But it suddenly got really hot and stuffy in the van – 30+ degrees outside in the shade, so we closed all of Percy’s windows and cranked up the air-conditioning for a few hours.

And I had a nap.

That’s about all of the excitement for today. Tonight we are off to see the final opera show called Dark Sky Serenade. It is being held at the Age of Dinosaurs site, about 30km outside of Winton on the road back to Longreach.

It should be a great night. I assume that everyone who’s anyone will be there again tonight with their soft cheeses, and bottles of white. And their reserved front-row seats.

But you’ll hear all about that tomorrow.

Tonight is our last night in Winton, and tomorrow we (literally) head off into the unknown. Well, unknown for us. From tomorrow morning we will be travelling roads that we have never travelled before.

Winton to Kynuna, then Kynuna to Julia Creek – home for tomorrow night. North and West to discover new places. It is under 300km and less than 3 hours, so it should be a relaxed day.

Winton
Winton

Ciao

#Retirement2024

#VanLife

Day 7: Winton

I feel like I need to explain something that I said in yesterday’s blog, specifically about the “deafening silence” at Dunblane. It’s actually quite strange, because normally we have a “noise floor” (to use amateur radio terminology) where there is a constant level of background noise.

Even now – sitting in the van at Winton – I can hear cars and trucks going along the highway, providing some constant white noise. Plus there are trees blowing in the wind, and people talking nearby.

Noise.

But when we were at Dunblane, there were virtually no trees on the property, so no wind noise, and the road to Winton was so far away (maybe a kilometre away) so no noise there either.

So in the absence of any background noise, you just have this aching silence.

And in the silence, any occasional noise that you do hear – like the bed squeak when you roll over, or crickets chirping – just seems so much louder and intrusive. Not necessarily in a bad way, though. Just different.

Maybe the sound of that alleged beeping in the middle of the night too?

When we rolled into Winton (population 1600) yesterday afternoon, it was about 30 degrees. I couldn’t get out of those jeans and into shorts fast enough! By the time we rolled out of the caravan park into the Winton town centre around 4.45pm for the night’s fun, Elsie’s thermometer was reporting it was 38 degrees outside.

So off we went to the Opera in the Outback’s first event (that we planned to attend) called “Sing, sing, sing”. It was intended to be a mix of operatic performances by Opera Queensland (OQ) professionals, with the opportunity for us non-professionals to join in.

And hopefully we will not spoil it 🙁

Most of the pieces that they encouraged us to sing along to were pieces that you would likely know, such as Habanera or Figaro, mashed up with Australian classics, like “Click go the Shears”.

It was all very interactive, and a lot of fun.

The event was held at the Royal Open Air Picture Theatre in the centre of Winton.

Royal Theatre – Winton
Royal Theatre – Winton
Royal Theatre – Winton
Royal Theatre – Winton
Royal Theatre – Winton
Royal Theatre – Winton
Royal Theatre – Winton
Royal Theatre – Winton
Winton

The host for the night – a guy named Jason Barry-Smith – was very flamboyant, and seemed to me to be something of a mix between Mr Humphries (from “Are you being served”), and Zsa Zsa Gabor, with his constant encouragement that our singing was “Fabulous, darlings”.

The event started at 6.30pm or so, and finished up just before 8.00pm. We sat in old-fashioned canvas seats, and the BBQ they put on was sausages and onions on bread at $3.00 each.

All in all a fun night.

I think I have said already that we are staying at the Winton Wanderers Caravan Park, just outside of Winton. A new, and very pretty little park with flat, level, drive-through sites and excellent facilities.

We woke this morning to a beautiful sunny day.

Winton Wanderers Caravan Park – Winton
Winton Wanderers Caravan Park – Winton
Winton Wanderers Caravan Park – Winton
Winton Wanderers Caravan Park – Winton
Winton Wanderers Caravan Park – Winton

After breakfast we did a run into town and a look around and to walk the main street. Also to figure out where tonight’s opera is on, and to see if we could spot any of the pop-ups that OQ are putting on around town during the day.

We were told of a new coffee shop in town called “The Lost Poet” and decided to support local enterprise. Nothing is more than a 5 minute walk in Winton, so we left Elsie where she was parked in the main street, and went for a walk.

Within 5 minutes of sitting down in the Lost Poet, OQ started up a quick performance.

The Lost Poet – Winton

After coffee, we kept walking around town.

There is quite a bit of history in Winton, including Arno’s Garden and Arno’s Wall.

Arno’s Garden – Winton
Arno’s Garden – Winton
Arno – Winton
Arno’s Wall – Winton
Arno’s Wall – Winton
Arno’s Wall – Winton

Nope, I don’t really get it either. Arno was either a genius who was way ahead of his time, or a lunatic.

I can only suggest that Mrs Arno must have been a very patient woman, because if I did that at home, I’d be very divorced.

In terms of other history in Winton, Banjo Patterson was probably the headline act, although there were several other things of note that happened here.

Winton history

There are several pubs in town (I’m thinking 3), and The Gregory Hotel seems to have a bit of a chequered history, with it being knocked down or burnt down several times.

Seems to me that if you book a room at the Gregory, you’d better have your life insurance paid up to date, and your affairs in order.

Or even if you just go there for dinner.

Gregory Hotel – Winton

So we had a wander around the township. Such a pretty little town.

Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton
Winton

It’s hot out here at Winton. 31 degrees.

Back to the van for a rest and some lunch. We decided to have dinner for lunch, and then take some snacky stuff for dinner tonight as it is a BYO food event.

Tonight we are off to see “Do we need another hero?”, which is tonight’s show by OQ. This one is a freebie but tomorrow night is “Dark Sky Sernade” and we paid about $120 each for those tickets. It is out at the Age of Dinosaurs, about 25km out of Winton. That one should be a great show.

MBW is catching up on MasterChef, and I’m looking at emails. All boring stuff, really. Sorry.

That’s about it for today. I hope you are enjoying tagging along.

Ciao

#Retirement2024

#VanLife

Day 6: Dunblane (Barcaldine) – Winton

Today was a day of firsts. I’ll come to that in a moment.

I barely slept last night. I was up late doing some things and by the time I crawled into bed just after 10.00pm, MBW was already snoring softly.

MBW gave me a copy of “The Tattooist of Auschwitz” as a retirement gift, along with a few other things – chocolate, Minties, and a hat.

So by the time I crawled into bed I was still a little wired and not really ready for sleep. So I pulled out the TToA and read a few chapters. By the time I was ready for sleep, I couldn’t get to sleep.

Argh!

It was really dark in the middle of 40,000 acres. About as dark outside your head with your eyes open, as it is inside your head with your eyes closed.

This dark, in fact. I took a photo of how dark it was just so that you could see for yourself.

This is dark. This is serious dark.

BTW the quote under the photo above comes from a line that Sylvester Stalone delivered in the movie Rhinestone.

Not only was it dark, but it was super quiet. So quiet in fact that it was deafening. So deafening in fact that I needed to put in my earplugs just to blot it out.

Yes, I know that sounds counterintuitive, but you’ll have to trust me.

So with my earplugs in, and it not mattering if my eyes were opened or closed because it was just as dark either way, I tried to go to sleep.

And I tried. And I tried. And I tried.

Somewhere around 1245am two things happened. Firstly, my bladder started sending messages to my brain, and they were messages that couldn’t be ignored.

And secondly, my legs started to cramp. Badly.

So I got up, put on a pair of shoes and went outside to stretch my legs and to also take a tinkle.

Now I don’t want to bore you with the moment-by-moment minutiae of daily life, and I certainly don’t want you to think that I am some kind of weird pervert who pees outside, but you need to understand a couple of important things here:

  1. The toilet canister light hadn’t come on yet and I could feel it in my water that it would come on at any moment, so I was trying to avoid that at all costs
  2. When you are in the middle of 40,000 acres and it is just before 1.00am, and it is super dark, the risks of being seen taking a tinkle outside are so small that they are insignificant. Probably close to zero. Maybe actually zero.

So that done – legs stretched, cramp relieved, and bladder emptied – I crawled back into bed.

And finally went to sleep …

… until about 30 minutes later, when I was right at the bottom of a nice, comfortable REM cycle, MBW shakes me awake and says “something is beeping”.

And then she rolled over and promptly went back to sleep, while I lay there for another couple of hours listening for an urgent screeching of the smoke alarm (or whatever it was), and wondering how I’d missed it. In fact, I couldn’t help but wonder if someone would find our cold, lifeless bodies in the morning because some catastrophe had happened and I’d missed the warning beeps.

But there was no beeping. Nada.

I finally got back to sleep some time later, and – despite only having had a couple of hours sleep – managed to wake in time to see the sun rising in the east. As it does every single day.

And it was a very pretty sunrise, so I took some photos of it to share.

Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane
Sunrise – Dunblane

It looks a bit like a sunset, except on the other side of the sky. Funny that.

The other thing that I really wanted to do before we left was to get the drone in the air. The batteries were charged and so I got it set up only to find that the app on my phone was outdated and needed to be reinstalled..

And that was a serious exercise in frustration when you have limited internet access, and the app isn’t available on the Google Play Store. Almost as frustrating as being at work. Sorry 🙁

Anyhow, after lots of jiggery-pokery I finally managed to get it sorted out and the drone was in the air.

The photos are terrible, and that is a combination of inexperience, the sun being low on the horizon, and trying to avoid overhead powerlines.

Dunblane by drone
Dunblane by drone
Dunblane by drone
Dunblane by drone

By breakfast we had run out of water in our tanks, and the toilet light was on, so we ate breakfast, hooked up, and headed into town.

The Barcaldine showgrounds have a dump point and a water tap for filling your tanks – both completely separate and with no risk of cross-contamination. Completely unrelated.

I know I shouldn’t need to say that, but I feel that it is an important point. I must say however that I was curious at the pair of BBQ tongs that someone has left at the dump point, and I am still trying to figure out their purpose in the emptying of a toilet canister.

Hmmm.

Anyhow, toilet canister empty, hands thoroughly washed and sanitised, and here we are filling the water tanks.

Filling the water tanks – Barcaldine

Thanks Barcaldine for being such an RV friendly town, and providing such great facilities!

The trip today is from Barcaldine to Winton, a distance of approximately 300km and just over 3 hours travelling time. It is made up of a 1 hour run to Longreach (home of the Qantas museum), then a further 2 hour run to Winton.

The roads were great. Wide, smooth, fast. Plenty of room to pass a B-Triple coming the other way, without fearing that you were about to be run or blown off the road. Plenty of room for overtaking, too.

I had a constant feeling that we were climbing all day. Elsie’s fuel economy reflected that fact too, with the tank registering just north of 20 litres per 100km.

If you do the maths and convert that to a cost per kilometre, it’s … nah. Experience tells me not to ask a question if you don’t want to know the answer.

So while I felt as though we were climbing all day, Wikipedia tells me that Barcaldine is 267m above sea level, Longreach is 191m above sea level, and Winton is 188m above sea level.

That means that … we were actually going downhill overall. Interesting.

Barcaldine – Longreach

We wanted to stop at Ilfracombe – about 15 minutes before Longreach – to have a look at a quirky little pub called the Wellshot Hotel.

And to get a caffeinated beverage.

After a broken night’s sleep, I needed all of the caffeine that I could get 🙁

Wellshot Hotel – Ilfracombe
Wellshot Hotel – Ilfracombe
Wellshot Hotel Coffee Hatch – Ilfracombe
Bar stool – Wellshot Hotel – Ilfracombe
Bar stool – Wellshot Hotel – Ilfracombe
Bar stools – Wellshot Hotel – Ilfracombe
Does my bum look big in this? Bar stool – Wellshot Hotel – Ilfracombe

The other significant event that occurred at Ilfracombe was that I finally had mobile access (thanks Woolworths Mobile!), so I was able to port my service over to another carrier that covers more of the Australian population than any other.

I’m finally back in the land of the living and contactable. Hooray!

It was quick run into Longreach for a quick walk around, and so that we could fuel up Elsie for the next part of the trip to Winton.

Longreach is yet another very pretty little outback Queensland town.

Longreach
Longreach
Longreach

We rolled into Winton a bit after 2.00pm and headed straight for our accommodation for the next 3 nights – the Winton Wanderers Caravan Park. It’s about 5km outside Winton on the way to Cloncurry.

We are here in Winton for the Opera in the Outback, and we will get to see 3 separate events over 3 nights, starting tonight.

Winton Wanderers Caravan Park – Winton

But first, let me tell you about today’s firsts:

  • It was the first time that we emptied the toilet canister
  • It was the first time I had mobile coverage since driving out of Roma
  • It was the first time I had the drone in the air
  • It was the first time that someone spoke to us on UHF Channel 40 and addressed us directly, due to the signage on the back of the van.

We have a sign on the back of the van that says 2AussieNomads.com UHF40, and we got a call from someone that I didn’t even realise was behind us saying “Supreme 2 Aussie Nomads, I’m coming past you …”.

Not exactly something to celebrate, but that’s why you advertise who you are and what channel you are on. It makes it so much easier for other road travellers to communicate with you.

We are off to “Sing, sing, sing” being put on by Opera Queensland tonight at the Winton Royal Open Air Theatre, so that should be a fun night … I hope.

You’ll hear about that tomorrow. It will be an early night tonight after the opera.

Ciao

#Retirement2024

#VanLife

Day 5: Dunblane (near Barcaldine)

Pfft.

I’m going to say it again. Pfft.

Last night’s “sunset from the tub full of hot artesian basin water” was a bust. Seriously.

Not the sunset’s fault. The sunset was spectacular. Indescribably beautiful.

Here is some proof, even though the photos simply do not do it justice. You had to be there to see it.

Sunset – Dunblane
MBW – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane

The problem wasn’t even with the tub and the hot artesian basin water. The problem was with the pump that pushes the water from the bore to the tub. Although technically there was nothing wrong with the pump either.

The problem was that Ergon Energy had a “significant outage” that plunged all of the Barcaldine district into the dark ages. Literally. A network outage that started about an hour before sunset and lasted until about an hour after sunset.

No electricity = no pump = no hot tub full of water.

Just the sunset. Which was spectacular.

As I said, the power did eventually come on and we filled the tub and went for a plunge anyway, but it was very dark, with a cool breeze blowing. We had a nice soak after dinner, then put on some warmer clothes and went and sat by the fire for a while and drank coffee.

And listened to the cows mooing, and the sheep baa-ing.

And nothing else. Not a sound. Well, maybe a few crickets.

We also spent some time looking up at the Milky Way and named all of the constellations that we could. Beautiful.

I wonder what the poor people are doing?

Monday morning, and we woke to a beautiful day. Sunny, warm, blue skies.

Morning – Dunblane
Morning – Dunblane
Morning – Dunblane
Morning – Dunblane
Morning – Dunblane
The entrance to our campsite – Dunblane

We had no particular plans for today, and David (the lucky guy who owns these 40,000 acres) was dubious of our claim that we would be happy just sitting around, reading books, and napping.

He proposed an alternative plan. A self-drive tour of his property.

All we had to do was follow the road leading out of camp towards the shearing shed. Not the road that we came in on, which could hardly be described as a road, but the one leading in the other direction.

Which, as it turns out, was even less of a road than the one we came in on.

Road towards the shearing shed – Dunblane
Road towards the shearing shed – Dunblane

Lucky we didn’t bring the Ferrari on this trip – it would never have made it!

We followed the road for about 15 minutes, saw some kangaroos and emus, and finally made it across the train line (that’s the QR Travel line to Winton), and to the shearing shed.

David’s instruction was that we should text him when we got to the shearing shed, and he would give us instructions for the self-drive tour.

Shearing shed – Dunblane
Shearing shed – Dunblane

Although we texted him, unfortunately he was tied up and didn’t respond. We found out later that he was busy unbogging a bogged caravan.

Probably that turkey from Victoria that I complained about yesterday.

If a less than perfect road and no response from David were the biggest problems that we have today, then it’s a pretty good day.

We decided to head back into town (Barcaldine) to have a look around. It was only 5km or so and I think that Elsie appreciated the opportunity to let those horses run free, without Percy on the back.

In fact, we (I) had a bigger problem than just David not responding. If you cast your mind back a few days to when we went through Roma, that was the last time that I had mobile coverage. Several months ago I ported across to Woolworths mobile on the understanding that it was on the Telstra network, and to have the added bonus of 10% off one shop at Woolies each month.

And given how much we spend at Woolies each month, that meant that the Woolworths mobile plan would pay for itself!

Bargain. NOT!

Roma was the last time that my phone connected to a network and I was able to send or receive calls and text messages. MBW’s phone still works and is getting good reception and decent internet, but mine?

Nada.

Barcaldine

Here we are, centre of Barcaldine, underneath a Telstra mobile tower, and no mobile coverage on my phone. Zip.

It turns out, as my learned oldest son informs me, that Woolworths mobile is on the Telstra Wholesale network, not the “real Telstra network”.

And he’d know, because he works for them.

So that means that I am doomed to no mobile coverage for most of this trip. Unless …

We went to the local Barcaldine IGA and got me a Boost Mobile SIM card. Boost are on the “real” network. MBW is on Boost, and she gets good reception and internet – remember?

All I had to do was to activate the SIM and my phone is alive again. Except …

To activate a SIM, you have to be able to receive a text message with a code in it. To receive a text message, you have to have mobile coverage. And I don’t have mobile coverage.

Bugger.

So we had a quick poke around Barcaldine, got some groceries and some more cash, and headed back to camp for a quick lunch.

Barcaldine
Barcaldine
Barcaldine
Barcaldine

By this time it was hot – about 30 degrees, so we changed into shorts and T-shirts, had a quick bite of lunch, and headed back to the shearing shed for the self-drive tour, take #2.

With instructions from David, and in possession of the black folder that gives us the detailed directions, we headed off.

The self-drive tour is the opportunity for us city-slickers to get out and have a look at how the other half – our country cousins – live. On our little 400m2 blocks, it is quite hard to comprehend the size of David’s 40,000 acres. And I’m sure that we only saw a small part of it.

It is also an opportunity to let Elsie do what she was designed to do – go off-road.

Self-drive tour – Dunblane
Self-drive tour – Dunblane
Self-drive tour – Dunblane
Self-drive tour – Dunblane
We picked up a hitch-hiker – Self-drive tour – Dunblane

It also turns out that David is smarter than the average bear. The self-drive tour is constructed to be followed as though we are working for him and doing a property check, looking for issues with the fence, checking the water tanks/troughs, and checking for any evidence of his sheep being killed by wild dogs.

His instructions are quite specific about how to check the water level in the tanks, and checking the condition of some of the equipment that he has around the property.

In one of the photos above you can see the dog fence, designed to keep wild dogs out, and to keep his sheep safe. And they are designed in a compartmentalised way so that if a dog does get it, it is confined to one small area and can’t go any further.

In fact, the dog fence surrounds and protects several properties, covering several hundred thousand acres.

As a part of the tour, you are asked to send him any photos or reports of any issues on the property. Seems like a very clever way to get people to see a part of his world, and for him to get property reports without having to have to go out and do it himself 🙂

Sheep – Self-drive tour – Dunblane

The tour took us about 2 hours to complete, and we travelled about 15km, and it was well worth the experience!

Here is a fun fact – I read somewhere that David has approximately 10,000 sheep on his property, and that he also has more kangaroos than sheep.

Travelling around Barcaldine and self-drive tour

Once we’d completed the tour, we headed back to camp for coffee and a rest. We spent some time looking around the camp, and checking out the neighbours.

It is obviously lambing season because there are lots of these little fellas running around the paddock.

Camp – Dunblane
The black sheep of the family? Dunblane
Beef and lamb – 2 of my favourite things – Dunblane

I had wanted to put the drone (Sam’s drone) up to get some photos this afternoon, but it seems that I neglected to confirm that the batteries were charged before I left home, so I put them all onto charge ready for tomorrow morning.

Fortunately we have power here at this campsite, so while we are very remote, we still have the ability to run 240V appliances, and charge drone batteries.

I busied myself with getting the tub ready for sunset tonight, given that Ergon Energy had lifted their game and we had power restored.

Last night we found that the water – while it comes out at about 45 degrees – it is not quite hot enough to be really relaxing. David has a hot water donkey that you can hook up to get the water even hotter.

That was all a bit of an exercise in frustration because the water pressures are not great, and so it was hard to get the water flowing effectively through the donkey, and the hoses are old and cracked, and the connections are bad … but being the resourceful people that we are, we found a way.

Where there’s a will … as they say.

Tonight we got to sit in the hot tub and watch the sun go down … and what another spectacular sunset it was.

Sunset was about 5.47pm tonight, so you can see how that unfolded – from the luxury of a hot tub.

Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane
Sunset – Dunblane

Dinner, coffee and a sit by the fire for a while. What better way is there to end the day?

Campfire – Dunblane

Tomorrow we are packing up and heading off to Winton, about 3 hours away. Fortunately Woolworths Mobile considers Longreach (on the way from Barcaldine to Winton) worthy of their mobile service. So we will stop there briefly to start the porting process and bring me back into the 21st century.

I’ve been cut off from the world for so long that I have been practicing smoke signals, just in case.

Winton is the place where we will stay for 3 nights, and we will get to experience the Opera in the Outback. It should be amazing – even though we are not opera buffs.

Winton is also the place where the water smells awful, full of sulphur … so we will be stopping in town (Barcaldine) to top up the tanks so that we have sufficient clean water to get us through the next few days.

We are still having fun, and hope that you are too!

Ciao

#Retirement2024

#VanLife

Day 4: Augathella – Dunblane (near Barcaldine)

Every good road trip needs a good theme song.

Normally my go-to road trip theme song is “On the road again”, by Willie Nelson. But I have used that one a few too many times already.

This is a long road trip, so maybe a long theme song. Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody”, or Billy Joel’s “Piano Man”. Or maybe Don McLean’s “American Pie”?

Without any consultation with MBW, I’ve decided that the theme song for this trip is Bobby McFerrin’s “Don’t worry, be happy”. Or perhaps the lesser known “Don’t HURRY, be happy”. We have all the time in the world, and only a few key (booked) places that dictate our direction and speed.

Last night we went to the rodeo. It was a fun night, but it got cold out under the stars. And then it got colder.

For some reason, I thought that the rodeo was starting around 2.00pm, and we would be home for dinner. As it turns out, we didn’t get back to town until around 9.00pm, and by then I needed coffee badly.

I would have done anything for a coffee at the rodeo, but that was one beverage that was simply not on offer.

So we got back to Percy around 9.00pm, and had a late coffee, then I did the blog.

One of the goals of this trip is to do things as cheaply as possible. That doesn’t mean that we are trying to be cheap or to cut corners, just that we are trying to live as cheaply as we can.

One of the ways that we can do that is by staying at showgrounds or public camping areas at little to no cost. Like the last two nights in Augathella (only $10/night).

But staying in public camping areas at little to no cost also means that we are generally off the grid – we have no connection to water or power and we just use water from our tanks and power from our batteries.

Like the last two nights in Augathella.

But being off the grid is a double-edged sword. No power or water hook-up means little to no cost, but it also means that we have no possible way of running a small electric space heater to warm up the van when it is cold.

And it was cold last night in Augathella. Very cold.

MBW put an extra blanket on the bed, had a hot shower (gas heated), and hopped into bed. I then disrobed ready for my hot shower and noticed that the fridge was flashing an error.

No gas available. The first gas bottle had run out of gas, and they have to be manually switched across from the empty one to the full one.

And that has to be done outside the van. Where it is cold. And I was already undressed.

Sigh 🙁

So I got dressed, went outside, switched the gas over, got the fridge and hot water going again, and started the process of my hot shower all over again.

If every road trip needs its own theme song, some days need their own theme song too. And today’s theme song would have been “Blue skies, smiling at me”, by Willie Nelson. Or perhaps Jimmy Cliff’s “I can see clearly now (the rain is gone)”.

It was a picture-perfect blue sky outback Queensland day. Clean air, birds singing, and a slight chill in the air.

Perfect.

Blue skies – Augathella
Blue skies – Augathella
Blue skies – Augathella

Today we are heading towards Barcaldine (or Barcal-dine, if you are talking to Larry). Larry is yesterday’s news. I’m not explaining Larry again.

Dunblane to be precise. Dunblane Queensland, not Dunblane Scotland, just to be clear.

About a 3 hour trip north, through Tambo and Blackall.

We paid our $20 donation before departing Augathella, and we were rolling out the gates of the campsite around 9.00am.

The streets of Augathella were absolutely deserted. Not a person to be seen anywhere, and I had to wonder if the Apocalypse had occurred and I’d missed it because I wasn’t paying attention.

And then I remembered the rodeo. And the drinking. And I figured out where everybody was hiding this morning 🙂

The drive was nice. The road from Augathella to Barcaldine is another one we have driven before – not that I remember it specifically – but it is not a bad road. A bit bumpy in places where Elsie gets thrown to the left, and then to the right while Percy is being thrown the other way. So a few moments of brief but intense excitement where I wasn’t sure whether we would become airborne, or the ESC would kick in and we would come to a screeching stop.

But we made it through.

The road to Barcaldine is basically broken up into 3 x 1 hour sections. 1 hour to Tambo, another hour to Blackall, then a final hour to Barcaldine.

We stopped once briefly at a rest stop to empty out the grey water tank, and then kept going until we hit Tambo. Gave Elsie a big drink and then went in search of coffee.

Tambo
Coffee – Tambo
Tambo

Tambo is a pretty little township that is barely more than a main street with a pub, and not much is open on a Sunday morning. We did manage to find a little coffee shop and stopped to give ourselves a big drink and something to eat.

It had become quite overcast again and quite cold, so we put on jumpers and warm clothes.

It all feels a bit silly to have to slow down to 40km/h to drive through a little township, and then speed up to 110km/h again a few minutes later.

On our way out of Tambo, a couple of things became immediately obvious.

Firstly, the skies were clearing again and we had blue sky and fluffy white clouds.

Looking promising
Looking VERY promising

And secondly, the roads were getting much better … except for when they were bad, and then they were very bad. I’m sure that you know what I mean, though.

I’ve said before that I am happy to puddle along at 95-100km/h, yet the roads were (generally) so smooth and good that every-so-often I would find myself doing 110-120km/h without realising it.

We pulled into Blackall around 12.30pm, noting that our check-in time for tonight’s (booked) stay is 2.00pm. We needed some groceries (salad stuff), so we stopped at the local IGA to get a couple of things.

The Blackall IGA is like stepping back in time. Each checkout had two people manning it – one to ring up your purchases, and one to pack them into a bag. And then if you needed help with your groceries, someone would carry them out to your car and load them for you.

I haven’t seen service like that since I was about 12 years old!

We only bought tomatos and a bag of salad, so we were able to cope with them ourselves, despite being retirees.

Blackall is another pretty little country town best known for … what? You will need to read to the end to find out!

Blackall
Blackall

The trip from Blackall to Barcaldine was uneventful, except for a turkey from Victoria towing a van who had a bad habit of slowing down to 80km/h every time there was oncoming traffic, and then speeding up to 110km/h when there wasn’t. That makes it very hard to overtake, especially when they hog the centre lane making it impossible to see what’s coming, and give you no clues if it is safe to overtake.

But I overtook him anyway and left him in my dust.

Turkey.

Tonight we are staying about 10km outside of Barcaldine at the Gretel Cattle Yards.

David (the owner) has 40,000 acres, and I reckon we have about 5,000 of them to ourselves … complete with a tub that is filled with hot artesian basin water. That’s where I will be sitting come sunset.

I’ll put up some pictures tomorrow, but for now this is a few pictures of the road in, and camp for the next couple of nights.

Road into Gretel Cattle Yards
Road into Gretel Cattle Yards
Road into Gretel Cattle Yards
Welcoming party (or dinner?)
Home for tonight – Dunblane
Home for tonight – Dunblane
Home for tonight – Dunblane
Home for tonight – Dunblane
Water tower and tub
The loo

It’s an early blog today. I need to get that tub full of hot water.

Now for the answer to tonight’s quiz: What is Blackall known for?

Answer: The Black Stump. It was used as a geographical marker way back when, and colloquially anything west of that is “beyond the black stump”.

That’s where we are now.

Ciao

#Retirement2024

#VanLife

Day 3: Augathella

Rain, rain, rain.

I didn’t think it rained much in these parts, but the heavens opened last night. Although I seem to recall reading recently that some of the roads we will be travelling have been closed due to flooding, so perhaps I should have paid more attention.

In any case, we woke this morning to discover Percy was surrounded by water. The view from inside looking out wasn’t promising.

Water, water, everywhere
Water, water, everywhere

But outside it was even worse. We were surrounded 🙁

Surrounded by water – Augathella
Surrounded by water – Augathella
Surrounded by water – Augathella

I think I finished last night’s post by saying that the pub was in full swing. It all got a bit crazy around 10.00pm, with a woman screaming out something like “will you all just cut it out”, followed by cars revving, and then screaming up the road.

Another big Friday night at the Augathella pub.

Our Ying and Yang was a bit mixed up last night. Or perhaps we reverted to our traditional sleeping roles … MBW put her head on the pillow and was instantly making sleeping noises, while I tossed and turned for a couple of hours.

Despite me being awake and MBW being asleep, she reported to me this morning that the fun at the pub got even wilder around 1.00am, with more shouting, and engines revving, and cars screaming, and tyres squealing.

I’d obviously managed to fall asleep, because I missed all of that. Or maybe it was the earplugs that blocked out reality.

It turns out that I didn’t hear the rain either, but apparently it rained heavily during the evening. There was plenty of evidence of that when I woke.

Today was intended to be a quiet rest day in Augathella. We only had two things that we really needed to achieve today: getting milk because we were getting low, and getting coffee from the local cafe because … well, because we needed coffee and we are not connected to power, which makes the coffee machine kinda useless.

So that was it for the day. Coffee and milk.

We had a surprise FaceTime call with a couple of our favourite little people (Teddy and Lili), so that topped up our emotional tanks for the morning before we set off in search of coffee and milk.

The “Friendly Grocer” – staffed by not-so-friendly people, as it turns out – advertises that they are open “5.5 days/week”, so we had a working assumption that if we hadn’t purchased milk by 12.00 noon, we wouldn’t be purchasing milk any time soon.

So off we set.

We were also aware that the rodeo was on tonight, and the lady in the butcher said it was an easy walk to the rodeo place, just up the road. So we thought that it was worth an afternoon’s entertainment.

We successfully achieved the coffee and milk tasks, and headed back to Percy … only to be greeted by a male voice calling out “anybody home?”.

Meet Larry. Larry is a retiree (like us, it seems), who gets around in a triple axle van and he makes and sells caravan accessories like A-frame covers, clotheslines, spare wheel covers, and stickers for your van.

Larry went to great lengths to tell us that he has a ”lady friend” but she is away at the moment, and that he likes to meet up with other 40+ solo travellers for companionship.

To be honest, it all sounded a bit creepy to me and I felt like I was being groomed for something unpleasant, but maybe I imagined it. Although in retrospect, I think that Larry was pretty harmless.

Larry also gave us a status report on the rodeo. He’d ridden his bicycle over there this morning and that “he’s seen more action at a funeral”. Noting that this was only about 11.00am and the rodeo didn’t open until 12.00, and didn’t start until 2.00pm, that may have been a harsh assessment by Larry, but it certainly had me questioning whether a Saturday night rodeo was worth the $15 each (“cash only”) for the outing.

The funniest part of the whole experience though, was Larry’s inability to pronounce words correctly.

Every time he said rodeo, it came out as rode-ao (as in Rodeo Drive), and every time he said Barcaldine, it came out as Barcal-dine (rather than Barc-aldine).

You had to be there. But I thought it was funny.

So the afternoon was just another happy retiree experience: having lunch, reading our books, having a nap, and talking about bowel movements.

Or maybe I imagined the bowel movement conversation …?

So at about 1.30pm, we started the 15 minute trek to the rodeo. Which took us closer to 30 minutes. It seemed that the butcher lady lied to us.

We watched the peewee barrel races (I think that’s what they are called when you ride your horse around three barrels and back to the finish line), then the juniors, then the adults.

Peewee races – Augathella
Peewee races – Augathella

If you look closely in that top photo, you can see a second set of legs behind the horse’s front legs – that was mum holding the kid so she didn’t fall off.

And the girl in the second photo was more interested in waving at the officials than anything else.

Barrel races – Augathella

As the contestants got older and more experienced, there was more speed, more excitement, more spectacular falls, and more swearing.

Like the lady whose horse decided that it didn’t want to play this silly barrel game, and just wanted to run full speed around the outside of all the barrels with the rider screaming “I can’t stop this $#*&ing horse …”. No points for that effort I’m sorry to say, but it gave us a giggle.

So that was the barrel races, and then we had a 30 minute break (that lasted 90 minutes) before the main event. If I heard the ringmaster say “we are not too far off starting now …” once, I heard it a thousand times.

The main event. Bull riding. Bronco riding. Bareback riding.

Danger. Excitement. Broken bones. Clowns. Injuries. Spectacular falls into the mud. Ambulances.

The main event was to be conducted in the main arena, so we grabbed ourselves a couple of steak burgers, and settled in for the night.

2024 Augathella Rodeo

I’ve never been to a rodeo before, but at least now when I say “it’s not my first rodeo”, I can say it truthfully.

I’m really not sure how to describe the evening, except to point out a few of the things that stood out. There were flies. Lots and lots of flies. And I reckon I inhaled more passive cigarette smoke tonight than I have previously in my whole life. It seems that the usual rules of smoking don’t apply in Augathella.

The bar was the place to be, but there was no real surprises there, given our experience with the pub last night.

2024 Augathella Rodeo
2024 Augathella Rodeo

I also felt a little under-dressed, as I had neglected to pack my boots and spurs. I also neglected to pack a decent jumper, and the night grew steadily colder.

At some point in the evening, MBW suggested that I walk back to camp and get the car and some chairs. Fortunately the nice man at the ticket gate – once I had divulged my plans to him to walk back to town – stopped the very next vehicle heading out the gate and instructed “young Luke” to “drive this man back to town”. So I didn’t have to walk after all.

Thanks Luke (who used to live in town but now lives in Cunnamulla, and who had no working seatbelts in his car.)

I can also report that they love the Land Cruisers out here. At least we fit it there.

Landcruisers rule – Augathella

Anyhow, the rodeo was probably what I expected, and far more messy that you see on television. MBW kept up a running commentary that “it doesn’t happen like that on ’Heartland’”.

This is how it unfolded for one rider …

Rodeo action – Augathella
Rodeo action – Augathella
Rodeo action – Augathella
Rodeo action – Augathella
Rodeo action – Augathella
Rodeo action – Augathella
Rodeo action – Augathella

Yep, it was all a bit of a blur. No points scored, and probably no likelihood of him ever having children in the future. Maybe not walking without a limp, either.

I expect that there are going to be a number of people feeling sore and sorry tomorrow, if the number of people thrown from a horse or bull and hit the ground badly is any indication. And then there was the one or two that needed medical assistance.

And I expect that there will be an ever greater number of people nursing very sore heads in the morning too.

It’s a funny thing – at home I never have cash and never carry it, yet in Augathella cash is king. Cash for entry to the rodeo, cash for the steak burgers, cash for drinks.

No EFTPOS, just cash.

I’m going to have to go in search of an ATM, because I only have enough cash left for the $20 donation for camping in this park for two nights.

We are off to Dunblane (near Barcaldine) in the morning, for a couple of nights of something that promises to be spectacular. But that will be tomorrow’s news.

On the bright side, with the rodeo on tonight the pub is closed, so it will be a quiet night in town!

And ever better news is that I can see stars in the sky tonight. Not a cloud to be seen, so hopefully we will have a couple of nice sunny days ahead (as forecast), and everything will dry out.

Ciao

#Retirement2024

Day 2: Wallumbilla – Augathella

MBW and I are like Ying and Yang.

One of us likes sultanas (bizzy-wizzies) in their breakfast cereal and raisin toast, the other doesn’t. One of us likes roller-coasters, and the other is always happy to stand and hold the bags.

One of us eats green peas, while the other doesn’t like them (… not that I ever get them because they are never served). Oops, sorry.

One of us sleeps well, and the other … well, you know how it goes.

History has taught me that while I will wake at 4.00am and say to myself, ”well, only two hours to the alarm .. I’ll never get back to sleep now” (glass half empty), MBW will wake at 5.55am and say ”beauty, another 5 minutes” (glass half full), and go back to sleep.

Seriously, MBW could sleep standing up in a hurricane.

But not last night.

Last night we stayed at the Wallumbilla (population 191) Showgrounds. $10 donation for water and power hook-up, remember? A bargain.

Turns out it was also close to the highway. Close enough that you could throw a rock and hit passing trucks. And that would have been like shooting fish in a barrel, because the trucks heading towards Brisbane were all frantically applying their compression/engine brakes to slow down as they are coming into the 60km/h zone into Wallumbilla. All night.

All. Night. Long.

But here is the funny thing. The one of us that doesn’t sleep well (me) put my head on the pillow and was off in the land of nod instantly and slept solidly for 8 hours or more, while MBW tossed and turned all night. I could speculate on the reasons for that – unconfessed sin, for example – but that would not be helpful or productive, so I won’t go there.

So I had a restful sleep, and MBW listened to trucks. (And me snoring, if you can believe everything that she says).

We were up, showered, fed, caffeinated, and rolling out the gate of the showgrounds before 9.00am, headed west again towards Augathella (population 328), home for the next couple of nights.

Wallumbilla Showgrounds
Wallumbilla Showgrounds
Wallumbilla Showgrounds
Wallumbilla Showgrounds
Wallumbilla Showgrounds
Wallumbilla
Trucks – All. Night. Long.

First stop for the day was Roma, to see the Pope. Kidding! The Pope lives in Rome, which is an entirely different place to Roma. A bit further North, and West I think …

We topped up Elsie’s tanks – just to take away any risk of running out of fuel in the middle of nowhere – and then went in search of Coles. Coles have a couple of specials on sale this week that we wanted to get.

Turns out that there is no Coles in Roma. The Project Manager in me really should have checked that before we left civilisation, so we took a detour to Woolworths instead to pick up some necessities.

Now, I know what you are thinking. We’ve only been on the road for less than 24 hours and you’d expect that it would have taken a little longer than that to run out of essentials … but alas, no. It actually didn’t take very long at all to discover that we had failed to pack any toilet paper. Not a single sheet of the stuff.

And I have to tell you, roughing it in the outback takes on a whole new perspective when you have no toilet paper!

So equipped with TP and a few other (slightly less urgent) essentials, we were back on the road, heading towards Mitchell.

Mitchell is a pretty little outback Queensland town where I would love to spend a week. It has artesian water swimming pools where you can soak those aches right out of your weary body, and it also has our favourite little outback supplies shop in the universe. Even better than Walmarts in the USA.

It had been predetermined that we would stop there, come hell or high water.

It is a rickerty old building with uneven wooden floors, and you can buy everything there. Well, maybe not everything, but it feels that way.

Cowboy/cowgirl clothes, boots, Crocs, Yeti drink coolers, hats (both Akubras and Stetsons), saddles and bridles, blankets, a gun safe, and stuff to kill intestinal worms in your livestock. Everything, I tell you!

MBW bought a nice pink checked shirt that I’m certain will appear in future photos, and it was also necessary because she’d forgotten to pack a decent shirt for the Opera in the Outback in Winton next week. Just like she forgot to pack toilet paper.

Mitchell

We were going to stop at the Mitchell bakery to get something for a snack, but we decided to keep moving towards Morven and stop at the coffee van that was parked at the side of the road last time we passed through Morven … maybe 2020? I mean, what could possibly go wrong with that plan?

Prepare yourself for disappointment (and no caffeine) Geoffrey, because the coffee van wasn’t there this time. What a surprise! And given that Morven has a population of only 125 peeps, it’s hardly like there is a plethora of other coffee shop options there. Sigh.

So we kept plugging along towards Augathella.

Road to Augathella

The roads are pretty long, straight and boring and given that we have driven these roads before – not that I can specifically remember them – there was nothing of note that we wanted to see or do. We have previously driven some of this road, but we passed the turnoff to Charleville and drove the bit towards Augathella for the first time ever.

A bit of rain – heavy at times – but nothing of particular note to report. Not much traffic.

Although the strangest and most unlikely things can bring humour to your day. There has been quite a bit of roadwork going on along these roads, so I can only presume that it is an election year.

Sorry, that probably sounded like sarcasm 🙁

Google maps is a wonderful thing, because it alerts you to speed traps, congestion, and road works. Except when you don’t have any mobile coverage (which was my reality for most of the trip today), in which case you have to look for ”roadwork ahead” signs, just like in the olden days.

Anyhow, we have had several occasions where we have stopped at a red light – literally in the middle of nowhere – to wait for traffic coming the other way to pass, so that it is our turn.

We came to some roadworks somewhere between Wallumbilla and Morven (can’t remember where sorry … a lack of caffeine will do that to you), and there was a set of traffic lights (red, of course), with a traffic control lady standing there with a clicker to make the lights change colour.

Seriously? I can get Chat GPT to write a beautiful poem for MBW for her birthday, but they can’t get a set of remote traffic lights to change by themselves without a lady in PPE with a clicker?

But the lady with the clicker wasn’t the funniest part. When she clicked and gave us a green light to go, she then waved us onto the wrong (right) side of the road to travel a couple of kilometres, while there was absolutely no roadwork happening on the correct (left) side of the road.

I mean, seriously? There was no digging, no people working, no roadwork, no machinery. NOTHING! We drove a couple of kilometres on the wrong side of the road looking at nothing happening on the correct side of the road!

And when we got to the other end of the ”roadwork”, there was another lady in full PPE, with another clicker, waving us back onto the correct side of the road.

I had to wonder if we were on an episode of ”Candid Camera”. It was really weird.

I needed a stretch after driving for a few hours with no break for coffee (sigh), so we determined that we would stop at the very next rest area that we saw. It was only another couple of kilometres down the road but was rather unequipped and uninspiring, with only a drop toilet and a wheelie bin.

I stretched, emptied the bag of rubbish in the car at the nearest wheelie bin, but couldn’t bring/brace myself to use the drop toilet, so we kept on towards Augathella. It was only another 10km or so.

The next act of complete randomness was signage on the road to Augathella that tells you that playing trivia can help you to stay awake.

First roadside trivia question: “What is the mascot for the Augathella football team?” Answer: The Meatant.

Next trivia question: ”Why was there only one trivia question?” They obviously don’t know much trivia around here, because they only had one trivia question.

Or they only want you to stay focussed for a very short time. Who knows?

Augathella (population 328) is another pretty little town in western Queensland. We have found a little public camping area that is $10/night donation for no power or water. Not quite the bargain that we got in Wallumbilla, but it is also not next to the highway.

There is not much to see in Augathella, but we heard that the local butcher is worth a look, so we did a wander up one side of the main street and back down the other.

We stopped at the local BoQ branch/Centrelink office and had a look at their gallery of black and white historical photos, but we had an attack of the guilts because we didn’t have any cash to make a gold coin donation.

Augathella Meatant
Augathella
Augathella
Augathella
Augathella
Augathella

As I said earlier, we are camped in the local park and didn’t even bother to unhook Elsie again, even though we are here for a couple of nights.

We stopped at the butcher to buy some steak and got a big lump of 1 inch thick porterhouse (to share, sadly) for dinner, and then went back for a nap (me) and for MBW to read her book for a while.

Augathella Butcher
Augathella Campground
Augathella Campground
Augathella Campground

I ducked across the road to the pub to get a ”minimum chips” ($5) to have with our steak and salad was rewarded with a beautiful rainbow while I was waiting.

Augathella Campground Rainbow

Dinner, blog and I am ready for coffee. I’m going to have to get out the generator and get some emergency power going for the coffee machine to work.

It turns out that the Augathella rodeo is on in town tomorrow (who would’ve known? Maybe that’s why there are so many vans here?), so that sounds like a bit of fun. I don’t expect that MBW will let me have a go riding a bull, even though I have the appropriate hat to wear.

One thing is for sure though – if we go to the butcher again tomorrow I’ll be avoiding the mince meat, because you never know what (or who) could be in it after a day of unsuccessful bull riders getting thrown off a bull and trampled.

Time for coffee. I can hear the locals across the road at the pub and I’m thinking of Lee Kernaghan’s ”Boys from the Bush”. I’m hoping that they won’t be at it for too long.

Ciao

#Retirement2024

Day 1: Home – Wallumbilla

We have a poster on our wall at home that says that ”… the journey of 1000 miles begins with a single step.”

The journey of 1000 miles …

Very profound.

This journey – the Retirement 2024 trip – started some time ago. Specifically it started on 31 October 2023 when I clicked the cessation button on our HR system and said ”I’m outta here on 03 May 2024”.

You’d think that 31 October 2023 to 03 May 2024 would be a lifetime, yet it came around in a flash, and I was being farewelled from QR.

Retirement 2024
Retirement 2024
Retired 2024. Thanks MBW!

The plan was that we would be hooking up the van and heading off into the sunset (literally, heading west) on Wednesday 08 May 2024 for a loosely arranged trip with some specific bookings for things that we wanted to see and do on the way.

The first issue was that we needed to get the van serviced, and the only day that we could get it done was – you guessed it – Wednesday 08 May 2024. So we deferred our departure for a day to leave on Thursday 09 May 2024.

And then MBW came down with a nasty vomiting bug on the Tuesday night. Honestly I’ve never seen someone be that sick for a very long time. So there was some doubt about when we would finally leave. Or whether MBW would survive.

I didn’t see MBW all day Wednesday, but the retching and vomiting noises confirmed that she was still alive. She had a day in bed sleeping (and vomiting, as noted previously).

I was so tired last night that I slept the sleep of the dead, and I woke at around 7.00am to find myself alone in the bed. Where, oh where, could MBW be?

She was in the bathroom, showered, fresh and (mostly) ready for the day. MBW is alive!

We did all of the last minute packing so that we could get away at a reasonable time. And when I say ”last minute packing”, what I actually mean is that we started putting out some clothes to suit a variety of possible weather conditions and temperatures. While this trip will take us to Winton, Darwin, Cairns and back home again, at least we won’t be living in a third world country where we can’t buy necessities that we forgot to take.

Like chocolate.

Anyhow, MBW went out for a quick haircut and we were packed and ready to hit the road by 11.00am. A bit later that I would’ve liked to be leaving, but at least we were going on (almost) the day we’d planned to leave, and the likelihood of someone vomiting in the car was mostly mitigated.

On our way

We left home and headed towards Toowoomba and beyond. I always feel that there are a few things that truly make me feel like I am on my way into Western Queensland:

  • You get off the Toowoomba bypass road and there are open fields all around you
  • There are lots of trucks on the road
  • You see your first B-Triple just before Dalby
  • The chatter on the CB radio Channel 40 goes from X-rated to helpful and interesting
  • You stop to stretch your legs and all you can smell is the smell of cattle (and cattle poop) in the air
  • You get past Chinchilla and the roads turn to 110km/h. Not me though … this responsible, retired grey nomad travels at a safe 95-100km/h.

We have done this road several times already, so really not much new or exciting to tell. Same old, same old.

Other than stopping for a cuppa in Dalby, the only real highlight of the trip was stopping briefly in Drillham (population 126) to post a letter. It will be interesting to see if that ever reaches its destination because it looked like that post box hadn’t been used for a loooong time.

Tonight’s stop is at the Wallumbilla Sale Yards/Showgrounds. Drive in, don’t even unhook, power and water hookup for a $10 donation. How good is that?

No pictures yet because we arrived just after 5.30pm and it was getting dark.

I had thought about going over to the shower block for a hot shower tonight, but the mossies are so big, and so fierce that I’m afraid to go outside the van for fear of being carried away. It will be a quick shower in the van tonight, and I will have a decent ablution in the morning.

But now I need coffee.

Ciao

#Retirement2024

Day 15: Stanthorpe > Warwick > Home

Take me home, country roads

That’s what John Denver sang … just before he died from massive multiple blunt force trauma in a fatal (plane) crash after his vehicle ran out of fuel.

Our only goal for the day was to achieve the first bit of that story (getting home), while avoiding the second bit (multiple blunt force trauma). Although JD’s plane running out of fuel and Elsie running out of fuel are two quite different scenarios.

It goes without saying that Stanthorpe in the middle of winter is going to be cold, but it wasn’t as bad as I expected. When the sun is shining and you are in Queensland, everything just feels warmer. Seriously!

And the fact that the sun had risen over the yardarm some hours earlier probably took the edge off the cold too.

There didn’t appear to be any particular set of rules associated with departure time at the Top of the Town Tourist Park (aka TotTTP), but 10.00am is a reasonable time to pull up stumps and set sail. Sorry about the mixed metaphors.

The nice lady in the office told us that the markets were on at the showgrounds this morning. The more observant of you will realise that they were the very same showgrounds that we were supposed to stay at last night, but the caretakers had to go away.

No time for campers, but all of the time in the world for markets.

And MBW does like markets.

Ironically, the showgrounds were next door to the TotTTP, so it was only a short hobble (for MBW) and we were there in a jiffy.

No charge for entry. We have been there to these markets once before on our last trip to Warwick and Stanthorpe in the middle of COVID, and the experience – from memory – was underwhelming. And that wasn’t COVID’s fault.

It turns out that – for once – my memory was correct. Underwhelming again. We had a poke around, looked at some overpriced handcrafts, and were walking back out the door about 10 minutes later.

Let’s play a quick game of ”Where’s Wally MBW?” Can you spot her in the picture below?

Stanthorpe Markets. Where’s Wally?
Stanthorpe Markets
Stanthorpe Markets
Stanthorpe Markets

Percy was all ready to go, but he just needed to be unplugged from the power and water and hooked up to Elsie. We were out of the park and on the road well before 10.00am.

Top of the Town – Stanthorpe
Top of the Town – Stanthorpe
Top of the Town – Stanthorpe
Top of the Town – Stanthorpe
Top of the Town – Stanthorpe

Just look at those blue Queensland skies!!

While I have to say that travelling all over the countryside with Percy on the back is my happy place, the closer we get to ”civilisation” (and I use that term loosely), the more anxious I feel. Other drivers on the road are far less courteous and considerate, and I constantly feel at risk of being in a serious accident.

And having our trip end the same way as John Denver’s is not in my immediate forward planning just now.

There was one particular overtaking lane between Stanthorpe and Warwick where some moron in a poo-brown Tesla (which is probably all that you need to know about the guy to judge his decision-making ability) very nearly ran me off the road at just under 100km/h when I ran out of ”slow vehicle lane” and he just HAD to get past me.

Turkey.

The roads were pretty good, considering that we were on a major highway back to Brisbane, but I have to say that some of our national highways/roads are a national disgrace.

Stanthorpe > Brisbane

Uneven, potholes, patching on patching on patching, and rough. And with Percy on the back you feel every bump and bang a second time when the van hits it. Although they do have plenty of overtaking lanes so that the clueless and desperate can go roaring past you to get where they need to be.

To be fair, many of the other drivers on the road are pretty pragmatic and considerate. There is only a select few that just need a bit more chlorine in their gene pool.

Anyhow, we arrived safely in Warwick, saw a coffee shop and purchased take-away caffeinated beverages, and we were back on the road again.

Past a Hipcamp that we have stayed at previously near Maryvale (we must go back there some time), and over Cunningham’s Gap. Maryvale (population 303) is a delightful little township just off the highway with a cute little pub and the best pork ribs I’ve had in a long time … but that is a whole other story for another time.

It felt as though Percy was resisting me dragging him home. He just felt heavy and sluggish and I wondered more than once if I’d forgotten to release the handbrake before we left … yet we got the best fuel economy on that trip than we got on any other tank of fuel for the whole roadtrip – about 16.5 litres/100km average – despite going up and over Cunningham’s Gap.

Home not long after 1.00pm and unpacked.

Elsie and Percy are both so dirty that I don’t know whether to wash them or plant potatoes.

This is what today looks like.

Stanthorpe > Brisbane

All up, we (MBW, Elsie and Myself) did about 4,080km total. Percy didn’t do quite that many because we left him parked a few times and went on day trips.

OK, so here is the answer to the ”Where’s Wally MBW?” question.

Where’s Wally?

Thanks for tagging along.

Ciao

#RoadTripNSW2023